Soyer's Culinary Campaign: Being Historical Reminiscences of the Late War.: With The Plain Art of Cookery for Military and Civil InstitutionsSoyer, Alexis
History
Soyer's Culinary Campaign: Being Historical Reminiscences of the Late War.: With The Plain Art of Cookery for Military and Civil Institutions
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking for military personnel; Crimean War, 1853-1856
As my people had returned, and were waiting for me, I bade my fair
_compagnon de voyage_ adieu, expressing a hope to have the pleasure of
meeting her in Balaklava. Our two caidjees rapidly flew away with us
from the side of the _Simois_, and soon landed us at the Tophané
tumble-down stairs. We are now on shore; but what a contrast!--the fairy
scene has disappeared, and we appear to be in the midst of a penny show.
The Tophané landing place is nothing but a heap of rotten planks, parts
of which have given way, and the holes are rather dangerous, as one
might easily slip and break a leg. The very clean and picturesque
caidjees are waiting amidst heaps of manure and the carcase of a dead
horse, which had been thrown into the Bosphorus and had drifted on
shore. A number of ill-looking, half-famished dogs were feeding upon
that heap of corruption. On inquiring of the son of the proprietor of
the hotel, who accompanied me, he coolly told me that it had only been
there a day or two, and would probably remain for months--particularly
the skeleton--when the dogs had devoured all the flesh. The odour
arising from the carcass, and the filth daily cast into the water, was
very unwholesome, and quite unbearable; and very glad was I to quit the
great landing-place of Tophané--so called, no doubt, from the
extraordinary amount of daily traffic between the shipping above and the
Asiatic shore. About seventy or eighty caiques are always waiting there,
as it is the principal landing point at Constantinople.
Following my guide, we passed through a number of dirty narrow streets,
full of a black liquid mud, very ill paved--if they could be called
paved at all, amidst which numerous leperous and villanous-looking dogs
were snarling and fighting. Donkeys loaded with tiles, stones, and long
logs of wood filled up the filthy road; besides gangs of powerful and
noisy Turkish hamals or porters, carrying enormous loads upon long
poles. The enchanting mirage of the panoramic Constantinople vanished
rapidly from before my disenchanted eyes; this ephemeral Paradise of
Mahomet changing at once into an almost insupportable purgatory. I could
not imagine how such a mass of ruins and of miserable wooden houses
could, from so short a distance, take such a brilliant aspect or create
such ravishing sensations, as the first view of Constantinople had
raised in my mind from the deck of the _Simois_. I now envied the fate
of our fair fellow-traveller who so much regretted that she could not
disembark--were it only for a few hours. Those few hours, nay, the
first, would have sufficed to break the spell. Reader, though this is an
exact description of our entrance into Constantinople, I reasoned
thus--It is an immense metropolis, and no doubt something great exists
within its walls. I must wait patiently and try to find it out.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account