Spain in 1830, vol. 1Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 1
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
Before dismissing the Paseos of Madrid, I must notice the Botanical
Garden; not much used as a Paseo, but certainly the most charming of
them all. While I remained in Madrid, waiting until the heats had so far
subsided as to allow me to journey into Andalusia, I generally walked
there during an hour or two after breakfast, having access to it at all
times, through the interest of a friend. The garden is very extensive;
the trees are full-grown; and there is a charming variety of rare and
beautiful plants. The garden, although not by any means neglected, is
not in such perfect order, or under such excellent management as it was
during the time of the constitution: it was then under the direction of
_Sr. La Gasca_, Professor of Botany, and a Member of the _Cortes_;
now a resident in England, where I believe his learning is appreciated
as it deserves. There is a curious and very unmeaning regulation,
connected with the _entrée_ of this garden. Every lady, on entering,
must throw aside her mantilla, and walk with the head uncovered; she is
not even allowed to drop it upon her neck; it must be carried upon the
arm. This regulation is almost an order of exclusion to a Spanish woman,
who considers the proper arrangement of the mantilla no trifling or easy
matter, and not to be accomplished without the aid of a mirror; it is
rarely, therefore, that a Spanish woman subjects herself to a regulation
by which she runs the risk of afterwards appearing on the Paseo with her
mantilla awry.
The only occasion upon which a Spaniard absents himself from the Paseo,
is when he goes to the theatre. The inhabitants of Madrid are a
theatre-going population; but their propensities that way are sadly
cramped for want of room; if, however, the theatre now erecting in the
neighbourhood of the palace be ever finished--a point certainly
doubtful, since the palace itself makes no progress towards
completion--half Madrid will find accommodation in it, and have the
honour of being seated in the largest theatre in Europe. I should
probably not have visited the theatre so soon, if the road from my
lodgings to the Calle de Alcala had not led me daily past the theatre,
where I generally stopped a moment to read “the bills of the play.”
These, as in the olden times in England, set forth the merits of the
play,--narrate a few of the principal events,--tell how, in one act,
there is a most witty dialogue,--and how, in another, there is a scene
which must delight every body; and conclude with some eulogy upon the
genius of the writer. The first visit I made to the theatre was to
witness the representation of a comedy by _Solis_, to be acted in the
_Teatro del Principe_. I walked in and took my seat without any one
asking for my ticket, which is not demanded until the play is nearly
concluded; so that a lover of the theatre, who might be scarce of money,
might gratify his appetite for nothing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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