Durham and the coal country open out on leaving secluded Rushyford. Durham Cathedral, although itself standing on a height, has the appearance of being in a profound hollow as the coach, with the skid on, slowly creaks and groans down the long hill into the city. Changing at the “Three Tuns,” the new team toils painfully up the atrociously steep streets to Framwellgate Bridge, where the river Wear and the stern grandeur of the Norman Cathedral, with the bold rocks and soft woods around it, blend under the westering sun-rays of a July evening into a lovely mellowed picture. Chester-le-Street and Gateshead are ill exchanges for the picturesqueness of Durham, but they serve to bring us nearer our journey’s end, and, truth to tell, we are very weary; so that, coming down the breakneck streets of Gateshead in the gathering darkness to the coaly Tyne and dear dirty Newcastle, with the hum of its great population and the hooting of its steamers in our ears, we are filled with a great content. “Give ’em a tune,” says the coachman; and, the guard sounding a fanfare, we are quickly over the old town bridge, along the Side, and at the Turf Hotel, Collingwood Street. It is nearly ten o’clock. The journey is done. Let us tot up the expenses per head:-- £ s. d. One outside place 3 10 0 Supper at Arrington Bridge 0 2 6 Brandy and sandwiches at Huntingdon 0 3 0 Coachman, Huntingdon 0 1 6 Coachman, Newark 0 2 0 Breakfast, Doncaster 0 2 3 Guard, Doncaster 0 2 6 Coachman, Ferrybridge 0 2 0 Dinner, York 0 3 6 Coachman, Northallerton 0 1 6 Tea, Rushyford Bridge 0 2 0 Coachman, Newcastle 0 2 0 Guard, Newcastle 0 2 6 ---------- Total £4 17 3 CHAPTER IV ACCIDENTS