Stray Leaves from an Arctic Journal: Or, Eighteen Months in the Polar Regions, in Search of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, in the Years 1850-51Osborn, Sherard
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Stray Leaves from an Arctic Journal: Or, Eighteen Months in the Polar Regions, in Search of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, in the Years 1850-51
Osborn, Sherard
Arctic regions; Franklin, John, 1786-1847
One of my ice-quartermasters, a highly intelligent seaman, assured me
he had been in a whale-boat up this very inlet, until they conjectured
themselves to be fast approaching Admiralty Inlet; the country there
improved much in appearance, and in one place they found abundance of
natives, deer, and grass as high as his knees. I landed with a boat's
crew on Button Point. The natives had retired into the interior to kill
deer and salmon: this they are in the habit of doing every season when
the land ice breaks up. Numerous unroofed winter habitations and
carefully secured _caches_ of seal-blubber proved that they had been
here in some numbers, and would return to winter after the ice had
again formed in the bay, and the seals began to appear, upon which the
existence of the Esquimaux depends.
On first landing we had been startled by observing numerous cairns,
standing generally in pairs: these we pulled down one after the other,
and examined without finding any thing in them; and it was only the
accidental discovery by one of the men of a seal-blubber _cache_,
which showed that the cairns were merely marks by which the Esquimaux,
on their return in the winter, could detect their stores.
[Headnote: _LANCASTER SOUND._]
The winter abode of these Esquimaux appeared to be sunk from three to
four feet below the level of the ground: a ring of stones, a few feet
high, were all the vestiges we saw. No doubt they completed the
habitation by building a house of snow of the usual dome shape over the
stones and sunken floor. Having no wood, whale-bones had been here
substituted for rafters, as is usual along the whole breadth of the
American coast-line from Behring's Straits; but many of the hovels had
no rafters. On the whole the impression was, that the natives here
lived in a state of much greater barbarity and discomfort than those we
had seen about the Danish settlements on the opposite shore.
A cairn was erected by us; a record and some letters deposited for the
natives to put on board whalers at a future season; and having placed a
number of presents for the poor creatures in the different huts, and on
the _caches_, we hurried on board and made the best of our way to
Possession Bay, and rejoined the "Resolute," from whom we learnt that
the "North Star" had placed a record there, to say, that after having
failed to cross Baffin's Bay in 1849, she had done so in 1850, and had
gone up Lancaster Sound to seek the "Enterprise" and "Investigator,"
under Sir James Ross, they having, as we knew, meanwhile, gone home,
been paid off, recommissioned, and were now, please God, in the Arctic
Ocean, by way of Behring's Straits.
_August 22d, 1850._--The "Resolute" in company, and steering a course
up Lancaster Sound.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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