Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British SomalilandRayne, Henry A.
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Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British Somaliland
Rayne, Henry A.
British Somaliland
We have no monster craft like the Basra dhow, carrying two thousand
packages of dates, such as was wrecked off Berbera some years ago.
The biggest boat we have, and we are indeed proud of her, barely
carries her three hundred sacks of rice, and boasts no compass. Her
captain does not require one; he knows the fourteen stars of the
hot season and the fourteen stars of the cold season, each of which
he will tell you is seen for thirteen days or nights only. As for
NUT and THURAYA in the cool season, AKIL, KALEH, SHOLE, SUOD, and
SUHAIL, though they be of the twenty-eight stars used by dhow-men
to steer by when they are in the heavens, beware! High winds may be
expected. "And if it is so dark that you cannot see the stars?" I
once asked a dhow captain. "Unless we are dangerously near to the
shore, or there are reefs about, we just go on. One can't get lost
in the Gulf of Aden."
But often dhows do get lost in the Gulf of Aden; and I mean it in
the literal sense. A few years ago the Zeila dhow, _Sahalla_, in
charge of an Arab named Mahomed Hussain, bound from Berbera to
Zeila with mail, a cargo of one hundred bags of jowari and thirteen
passengers from Bulhar, capsized about four miles out to sea at
half-past three of an August afternoon. Three men and one woman were
drowned, and several persons clinging to a mast were in the sea
for three days. A small boy seized the tail of a sheep and clung
on until the animal dragged him ashore. As a rule sheep are poor
swimmers, but luckily for the youngster, who could not swim, this
beast was an exception.
In years gone by Zeila dhows saw exciting service in the slave
trade, but the old dhow captains are naturally reticent concerning
any part they may have taken in it. Even the ex-slaves, all of
whom profess to be devout Mahomedans, prefer to keep secret, if
possible, the story of their adventures and release. According
to the jail-master, who is one of the latter, he was nothing but
the adopted son of a slave-master, who spent much of his time in
teaching his protégé the intricacies and mysteries of the true
faith. He holds such a good position nowadays, does our jail-master,
that people are charitable enough to forget that he was once "only a
slave and a heretic." Human nature is like that.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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