Coffee sometimes plays a more serious part in Eastern affairs. Its heavy
sweetness disguises varied and deadly poisons. The bacilli of typhoid
fever are said, in this scientific generation, to be drunk unsuspectingly
by many a venturesome meddler in affairs of state. The death penalty
is seldom inflicted in the Turkish Empire. Deposed ministers and
irrepressible busybodies and troublesome reformers are merely imprisoned
or exiled. Often they are sent to Damascus. Then, shortly, they die of
indigestion or heart failure.
CHAPTER IX
THE RICHES OF DAMASCUS
The great khans, or wholesale warehouses, of Damascus lie in the center
of the city near the Omayyade Mosque. As a rule they are not detached
structures, but are hidden by the surrounding shops and are entered
through tunnels which pierce the sides of the bazaars. The finest of
them is the Khan Asad Pasha, which was erected a hundred years ago by
the governor whose name it bears, and is still owned by his family.
This is one of the few really impressive pieces of Arabic architecture
in Syria, rich and massive, yet effectively adapted to the purposes for
which it was intended. The building is constructed of alternate courses
of dark brown and yellow limestone, and its principal entrance is a high,
vaulted “stalactite” gateway covered with beautiful carvings. The central
court is a hundred feet across and, as one comes suddenly from the dim
light of the crowded bazaar, it seems of an astounding brightness and
spaciousness. The pavement is divided into squares by four pillars, and
from these spring the arches of nine lofty domes, which are ornamented
with elaborate arabesques and pierced by a number of small windows. On
the sides of this great court, and also on a gallery above, are the
offices of wholesale merchants and brokers, and at the rear are situated
smaller courts and the vaulted storerooms of the khan. Around the central
fountain between the pillars of the largest dome and crowding through
the gateway and thronging the street outside, a vociferous throng of
muleteers and camel-drivers are unloading the caravans which have come
from Beirut on the coast and from northern Aleppo and across the desert
from the Euphrates, bearing the choicest merchandise of the East, and
some few machine-made products of the West, to swell “the riches of
Damascus.”[33]
There are real merchant-princes in this busy trading-center, and some of
them live in royal splendor. The houses of the Damascus rich are truly
palatial; but the stranger would never guess it from their exteriors, for
the Syrian home has no elaborate façade and pretentious approach, such
as the Franks delight to build. The prime object of the architect is to
achieve the most absolute retirement for his patron. No window ever looks
into that of a neighboring residence; no passer-by ever glimpses through
an opened door the interior of a private dwelling. If the Englishman’s
house is his castle, the Syrian’s is his retreat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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