In color, flavor and character, Japan teas are totally distinct from any
and all other varieties, the finer grades being exceedingly delicate,
rich and peculiar to themselves. They yield a light-colored liquor, very
fragrant in flavor, but apt to deceive the casual drinker, as after
continued use they are found to possess greater strength and pungency
than most China teas, their effect on the nervous system being very soon
perceptible. They are classed commercially as Yama-shiro, Uji, Kioto,
Yedo, Eisyie, Suringar, Hatchoji, Nagahama, Nagasaki, Tosia and Bancha,
grading in value in the order named, and converted into Pan-fired,
Sun-dried, Basket-fired, Nibs and Siftings, with occasionally small lots
of Pekoe, Congou, Oolong, Imperial, Gunpowder and Young Hyson makes.
=Pan-fired=—The finer grades have a long, well-curled, natural green
leaf, presenting an unbroken appearance, sinking immediately to the
bottom of the cup on infusion, uncurling rapidly and showing more or
less perfect leaves in the infused state. It yields a clear, bright
liquor, which remains unchanged in color and flavor until cold. The
flavor is delicate and fragrant in odor somewhat like that of new-mown
hay. The medium grades are correspondingly rougher in make, darker in
liquor and duller in flavor, while the commoner ones are coarse and
unsightly in style, varying from a greenish to a mottled blue in color,
and possessing a “brassy” or metallic taste, due to the cosmetic or
artificial coloring-matter used in their preparation.
=Sun-dried=—As the name implies, are steamed and dried in the sun before
firing, in order to fix their color permanently. The leaf is
olive-green, well fired, compactly curled and “toasty” in the cup, owing
to their thorough fermentation before firing, and although not as well
appreciated as the Pan-fired, are much superior in drinking properties,
their extra fermentation destroying the “grassy” flavor so
characteristic of many Japans. The lower grades range from a yellowish
to a dull-green, indifferently rolled and often “fishy” in flavor, said
to be contracted from the use of fish manure in the coast districts.
=Basket-fired=—So named from being cured by the “basket process,” and in
contradistinction to those fired in pans. The finer grades are long,
dark and exceedingly well twisted or curled, entirely free from stems,
dust and other extraneous matter, clear and bright in liquor, and mellow
or “mealy” in flavor, the latter quality making them a very valuable
sort for blending purposes. The commoner grades are rough, and uncouth
in style, brownish-black in color, thick and heavy in liquor, but
lacking in “grip” and flavor.
=Kumo=—Or “Spider-leg” Japan, is in reality only a finer grade of
basket-fired; long, narrow, black, and “wirey” in leaf, and elastic in
texture. It is of the Pekoe order in make, but still retaining all the
properties of liquor and flavor of a Japan tea pure and simple.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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