Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
On the 16th of August we left Nâblus and moved the camp northwards to
the village of Jeb’a.
The district thus entered is very rich, the villages large and
flourishing, with good stone houses in them, and the olives and corn
very fine. It is called the “Eastern District of the Jerrâr,” from the
name of a famous family of native chiefs, once the governors of all the
hills from the Great Plain to Nâblus on the south. The Sheikh of the
village at which we camped was one of this family, and we were treated
by its members with much courtesy, although this politeness may not have
been altogether disinterested.
The village of Jeb’a was on the east of our camp, on a hillside, and
well built of stone, with olives around it; on the north we looked
across a narrow plain to Remeth of Issachar, and other ancient villages
perched on heights; behind us the hills rose suddenly and stretched
westwards in the long spur from Mount Ebal. East of Jeb’a stands the
strong fortified village of Sânûr, on an isolated hill guarding the pass
into a small plain, called the “Drowned Meadow,” which has no natural
drainage, and thus becomes a marsh in the winter, drying up only in May
or June.
This fortified village has often been supposed identical with the
Bethulia of the Book of Judith, a place which was near Dothan; but Sânûr
does not fulfil one of the main requisites for the site, as it does not
command a view of the Plain of Esdraelon. It is curious that the village
of Mithilia, a little farther north, has been overlooked, the name of
which approaches closely to that of Bethulia, whilst the plain is seen
from the ridge near the village.
The head of the house of the Jerrâr lived at Sânûr, his nephew was
Sheikh of Jeb’a; the younger members of the family were innumerable, and
we were plagued with endless visits from them all. The Jeb’a family
invited us to dinner, and we were thus able to witness a phase in
peasant life not often seen by Europeans.
About six in the evening a man was sent to the camp to escort us, and we
walked through the village to the highest house, that of the Sheikh. The
inhabitants are wonderfully fine men, and used to be famous for their
feuds with the men of ’Arrâbeh, some miles to the north; they are still
redoubtable thieves, but in 1868 the Government came down on them after
a riot, killed some thirty or forty, fined the village heavily, and took
most of the young men for soldiers. The Sheikh’s house was well built
and new; the reception-room, on an upper floor, had a raised daïs, with
a low wooden rail, about six inches high, on the step. It was carpeted,
and pillows arranged against the walls at the upper end in the corners,
where we were requested to sit. The walls were covered with plaster very
brown and cracked. A gallery for sleeping was built at the lower end of
the room.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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