English weavers knew also how to work artificially designed and
well-figured webs. In the wardrobe accounts of Edward the second is
this item: “to a mercer of London for a green hanging of wool wove
with figures of kings and earls upon it, for the king’s service in
his hall on solemn feasts at London.” Such “salles,” as they were
called in France, and “hullings” or rather “hallings” the name they
went under here, were much valued abroad and in common use at home.
Under the head of “Salles d’Angleterre” among the articles of costly
furniture belonging to Charles the fifth of France, in 1364, one set
of hangings is thus entered: “une salle d’Angleterre vermeille brodée
d’azur, et est la bordeure à vignettes et le dedens de lyons, d’aigles
et de lyepars.” Here in England, Richard earl of Arundel in 1392 willed
to his dear wife “the hangings of the hall which was lately made in
London, of blue tapestry with red roses with the arms of my sons,”
etc.; and lady Bergavenny, after bequeathing her hullying of black,
red, and green to one friend, left to another her best stained “hall.”
Flemish textiles, at least of the less ambitious kinds such as napery
and woollens, were much esteemed centuries ago; and our countryman
Matthew of Westminster says of Flanders that, made from the material
which we sent her, the wool, she sent us back precious garments. So
important was the supply of wool to the Flemings in the fourteenth
century that the check given to it by the wars between England and
France at that time led to a special treaty between Edward the third
and the burghers of the Flemish communes under the guidance of James
van Artevelde.
Though industrious everywhere within her limits, some of the towns
of Flanders stood foremost for certain kinds of stuff, and Bruges
became in the latter end of the fifteenth century conspicuous for
its silken textiles. The satins of Bruges were used in England for
church garments. Haconbie church, in 1566, had “one white vestmente of
bridges satten repte in peces and a clothe made thereof to hange before
our pulpitt;” and in 1520 York cathedral had “a vestment of balkyn
(baudekin) with a crosse of green satten in bryges.” Her damasks silks
were equally in demand; and the specimens at South Kensington will
interest the student. Nos. 8318 and 8332 show the ability of the Bruges
loom; while the favourite pattern with the pomegranate in it betrays
the likings of the Spaniards, at that time the rulers of the country,
for this token of their renowned Isabella. No. 8319 is another sample
of Flemish weaving, rich in its gold and full of beauty in design.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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