In her velvets Flanders had no need to fear a comparison with anything
of the kind that Italy ever threw off from her looms, whether at
Venice, Florence, or Genoa. Not to name others one example, with its
cloth of gold ground and its pattern in a dark blue deep-piled velvet,
is not surpassed in gorgeousness even by that splendid stuff from
Florence of which the Stonyhurst cope, just spoken of, was made.
Block-printed linen toward the end of the fourteenth century was
another production of Flanders. Though existing examples to the eyes
of many may look poor or mean, yet to men like the cotton-printers
of Lancashire they will have a strong attraction; and to the scholar
they will be deeply interesting as suggestive of the art of printing.
Such specimens are rare, but it is likely that England can show in the
chapter library at Durham the earliest sample of the kind as yet known;
a fine sheet wrapped about the body of some old bishop found in a
grave opened by Mr. Raine in 1827, within the cathedral. Several pieces
of ancient silks and English embroidery were found at the same time.
What Bruges was in silks and velvets, Yprès, in the sixteenth century,
became for linen; and for many years Flemish linens were in favourite
use throughout England. Hardly a church of any size, scarcely a
gentleman’s house in this country, but used a quantity of towels and
other napery that was made in Flanders, especially at Yprès.
French silks, now in such extensive use, were not much cared for until
the end of the sixteenth century in France itself, and seldom heard
of abroad. The reader, then, must not be astonished at finding so
few examples of the French loom in any collection of ancient silken
textiles.
In France, as in England, women in mediæval days, old and young, rich
and poor, while filling up their leisure hours in-doors used to work
on a small loom, weaving narrow webs, often of gold and diapered with
coloured silks. At South Kensington, nos. 1250, 7062, and 7064 are
examples of such French wrought stuffs belonging to the thirteenth
century. In damasks, the earliest French productions are of the
sixteenth century; and no. 8352 is a favourable example of what this
manufacture then was in France; everything later is of the type so
well known to everybody. In several of her textiles a leaning towards
classicism in design is discernible.
Like Flanders, France knew how to weave fine linen which here in
England was much employed for ecclesiastical as well as household
purposes. Three new cloths of Rains (Rennes in Brittany) were, in 1327,
in use for the high altar in Exeter cathedral, and many altar cloths of
Paris linen. In the poem of the ‘Squire of low degree’ the lady is told
Your blankettes shal be of fustyane,
Your shetes shal be of cloths of rayne;
and, in 1434, lady Bergavenny devises in her will “two pair sheets of
Raynes, a pair of fustians,” etc.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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