Of cut-work in embroidery those pieces of splendid Rhenish needlework
with the blazonment of Cleves, sewed upon a ground of crimson silk,
nos. 1194–5, at South Kensington, and the chasuble of crimson
double-pile velvet, no. 78, are good examples. In the last, the niches
in which the saints stand are loom-wrought, but those personages
themselves are exquisitely worked on separate pieces of fine canvas and
afterwards let into the unwoven spaces left open for them. A Florentine
piece of cut-work, no. 5788, is alike remarkable for its great beauty
and the skill shown in bringing together both weaving and embroidery.
Much of the architectural accessories is loom-wrought, while the
extremities of the evangelists are all done by the needle; but the
head, neck, and long beard are worked by themselves upon very fine
linen, and afterwards put together in such a way that the full white
beard overlaps the tunic.
Other methods gave a quicker help in this cut-work. For the sake of
expedition all the figures were sometimes at once shaped out of woven
silk, satin, velvet, linen, or woollen cloth as wanted, and sewed upon
the grounding of the article: the features of the face and the contours
of the body were then wrought by the needle in very narrow lines done
in brown silk thread. At times, even this much of embroidery was set
aside for the painting brush, and instances are to be found in which
the spaces left uncovered by the loom for the heads and extremities
of the human figures are filled in with the brush. Sometimes, again,
the cut-work done in these ways is framed, as it were, with an edging,
either in plain or gilt leather, hempen, or silken cord, like the
leadings of a stained glass window. Perhaps in no collection open
anywhere to public view can a piece of cut-work be found so full of
teaching about the process of this easy way of execution as no. 1370
at South Kensington: and we earnestly recommend the attention of our
readers to that example.
For the invention of cut-work, or “di commesso” as Vasari calls
it, that writer tells us we are indebted to one of his Florentine
countrymen: “It was by Sandro Botticelli that the method of preparing
banners and standards in what is called cut-work was invented; and this
he did that the colours might not sink through, showing the tint of the
cloth on each side. The baldachino of Orsanmichele is by this master,
and is so treated, etc.” But Vasari is not correct: the piece just
spoken of, no. 1370, was made half a century before Botticelli was born.
There are other accessories in mediæval embroidery which ought not to
be overlooked.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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