Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
In their etymology of diaper, modern writers try to draw the word from
Yprès, or d’Ypriès, because that town in Belgium was once celebrated,
not for silken stuffs, but for linen. Between the city and the name
of “diaper” a kinship even of the very furthest sort cannot be fairly
set up. From the citations out of the Chronicle of Monte Cassino we
learn, that at the beginning of the eleventh century, the term in
use there for a certain silken textile, brought thither from the
east, was “diasperon.” We find, too, how that great monastery was in
continual communication with Constantinople, whither she was in the
habit of sending her monks to buy art-works of price, and bring back
with them workmen, for the purpose of embellishing her Church and its
altars. Getting from South Italy to England, and our own records, we
discover this same Greece-born phrase, diaspron, diasper, given to
precious silks used as vestments during the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries, in London and Exeter. By the latter end of the fourteenth
century--Chaucer’s time--the terms “diasper,” and “diasperatus,” among
us, had slidden into “diaper,” “diaperatus,” Englished, “diapered.”
Now, in this same fourteenth century, do we, for the first time, meet
a mention of Yprès; and not alone, but along with Ghent, as famous for
linen, if by that word we understand cloth; and even then our own Bath
seems to have stood above those Belgian cities in their textiles. Among
Chaucer’s pilgrims--
A good wif was ther of beside Bathe
* * * * *
Of cloth making she hadde swiche an haunt
She passed hem of Ipres and of Gaunt.[164]
[164] The Prologue, 447.
Neither in this, nor any other subsequent notice of Yprès weaving,
is there anything which can be twisted into a warrant for thinking
the distinctive mark to have been the first employment of pattern on
its webs, or even its peculiar superiority in such a style of work.
The important fact which we have just now verified that several ages
had gone by between the period when, in Greece, in South Italy, and
England, the common name for a certain kind of precious silk was
“diaspron,” “diasper,” “diaper,” and the day when, for the first time,
Yprès, not alone, but in company with other neighbouring cities,
started up into notice for its linens, quite overthrows the etymology
thought of now-a-days for the word “diaper,” and hastens us to the
conclusion that this almost ante-mediæval term came to us from Greece,
and not from Flanders.
Of the several oldest pieces in this collection, there are not a
few which those good men who wrote out the valuable inventories of
Exeter and St. Paul’s, London, would have jotted down as “diasper,” or
“diaper.” The shreds of creamy, white silk, number 1239, p. 26, fully
illustrate the meaning of this term, and will repay minute inspection.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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