Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
More ancient still are other terms which we are about to notice,
such as “chrysoclavus,” “stauracin,” “polystaurium,” “gammadion,” or
“gammadiæ,” “de quadruplo,” “de octoplo,” and “de fundato.” First,
textiles of silk and gold are, over and over again, enumerated as
then commonly known under such names, in the so-called Anastasius
Bibliothecarius, Liber Pontificalis seu de Gestis Romanorum Pontificum,
the good edition of which, in three volumes, edited by Vignolius, ought
to be in the hands of every student of early Christian art-work, and in
particular of textiles and embroidery.
The _Chrysoclavus_ or golden nail-head, was a remnant, which lingered a
long time among the ornaments embroidered on ecclesiastical vestments,
and robes for royal wear, of that once so coveted “latus clavus,” or
broad nail-head-like purple round patch worn upon the outward garment
of the old Roman dignitaries, as we learn from Horace, while laughing
at the silly official whom he saw at Fondi--
Insani ridentes præmia scribæ,
Prætextam et latum clavum.[165]
[165] Serm. lib. i. satir. v.
In the Court of Byzantium this device of dignity was elevated, from
being purple on white, into gold upon purple. Hence came it that
all rich purple silks, woven or embroidered, with the “clavus” done
in gold, became known from their pattern as gold nail-headed, or
chrysoclavus, a half Greek half Latin word, employed as often as
an adjective as a substantive; and silken textiles of Tyrian dye,
sprinkled all over with large round spots, were once in great demand.
Shortly after, A.D. 795, Pope Leo, among his several other gifts to
the churches at Rome, bestowed a great number of altar frontals made
of this purple and gold fabric, as we are told by Anastasius. To
the altar of St. Paul’s the pontiff sent “vestem super altare albam
chrysoclavam;”[166] but to another “vestem chrysoclavam ex blattin
Byzanteo.”[167] Sometimes these “clavi” were made so large that upon
their golden ground an event in the life of a saint, or the saint’s
head, was embroidered, and then the whole piece was called “sigillata,”
or _sealed_.
_Stauracin_, or “stauracinus,” taking its name from σταυρος, the Greek
for “cross,” was a silken stuff figured with small plain crosses, and
therefore from their number sometimes further distinguished by the word
signifying that meaning in Greek,
_Polystauron._ Of such a textile St. Leo gave presents to churches, as
we learn from Anastasius, lib. Pont. ii. 265.
How much silken textiles figured with the cross were in request for
church adornment we learn from Fortunatus, who, about the year 565,
thus describes the hangings of an oratory in a church at Tours--
Pallia nam meruit, sunt quæ cruce textile pulchra,
* * * * *
Serica qua niveis sunt agnava blattea telis,
Et textis crucibus magnificatur opus.[168]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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