Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Silks, from the pattern woven on them called _de fundato_, are
frequently spoken of by Anastasius. From the texts themselves of that
writer, and passages in other authors of his time, it would seem that
the silks themselves were dyed of the richest purple, and figured
with gold in the pattern of netting. As one of the meanings for the
substantive “funda” is a fisherman’s net, rich textiles so figured in
gold, were denominated from such a pattern “de fundato” or netted. To
St. Peter’s Church at Rome the pontiff, Leo III. gave “cortinam majorem
Alexandrinam holosericam habentem in medio adjunctum fundatum, et in
circuitu ornatum de fundato;”[176] and for the Church of St. Paul’s,
Leo provided “vela holoserica majora sigillata habentia periclysin et
crucem tam de blattin seu de fundato.”[177] From Fortunatus we gather
that those costly purple-dyed silks called “blatta,” were always
interwoven with gold:--
Serica purpureis sternuntur vellera velis,
Inlita blatta toris, aurumque intermicat ostro.[178]
This net-pattern lingered long, and, no doubt, we find it, under a new
name, “laqueatus”--meshed--as identified upon a cope made of baudekin,
at St. Paul’s, London, A.D. 1295: “Capa de baudekino cum pineis
(fir-apples) in campis laqueatis.”[179] Modifications of this very old
pattern may be seen in this catalogue (pp. 35, 36, 154).
[175] Raine’s St. Cuthbert, p. 196.
[176] Lib. Pontif. ii. 282.
[177] Ibid. 240.
[178] De Vita S. Martini lib. ii.
[179] Dugdale’s St. Paul’s, p. 318.
The Latin term “de fundato,” for this net-pattern, so unusual, has for
many been quite a puzzle. Here, too, art-works are our best help to
properly understand the meaning of the word. The person of Constantine
the Great, given by Gori,[180] as well as that of a much later
personage, shown us by Du Cange, at the end of his “Glossarium,”[181]
shows the front of the imperial tunic, which was purple, to have been
figured in gold with a netting-pattern, marked with pearls. Gori,
moreover, presents us with a bishop whose chasuble is of the same
design.[182] Further still, Paciaudi, in his “De Cultu S. Johannis
Baptistæ,”[183] furnishes a better illustration, if possible, by an
engraving of a diptych first published by him. Here St. Jacobus, or
James, is arrayed in chasuble and pall of netting-patterned silk; and
of the same-figured stuff is much of the trimming or ornamentation on
the robes of the B. V. Mary, but on those more especially worn by the
archangels, St. Michael and Gabriel. In the diapered pattern on some
of the cloth of gold found lately in the grave of some archbishop of
York, buried there about the end of the thirteenth century, is the same
netting discernible.
[180] T. iii. p. xx.
[181] T. viii. plate 5.
[182] Ib. p. 84.
[183] P. 389.
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