Among the many rich textiles belonging to St. Paul’s, London, A.D. 1295, are mentioned: “Baudekynus purpureus cum columpnis et arcubus et hominibus equitantibus infra, de funere comitissæ Britanniæ. Item baudekynus purpureus cum columpnis et arcubus et Sampson fortis infra arcus, de dono Domini Henrici Regis. Duo baudekyni rubei cum sagittarijs infra rotas, de dono E. regis et reginæ venientium de Wallia, Unus Baudekynus rubei campi cum griffonibus, pro anima Alianoræ reginæ junioris,”[200] &c. At times these rich stuffs were cut up into chasubles: “Casula de baudekyno de opere Saracenico,”[201] as was the cloth-of-gold dress worn by one of our princesses at her betrothal: “Unam vestimentum rubeum de panno adaurato diversis avibus poudratum, in quo domina principessa fuit desponsata.”[202] The word “baudekin” itself became at last narrowed in its meaning. So warm, so mellow, so fast were all the tones of crimson which the dyers of Bagdad knew how to give their silks, that without a thread of gold in them, the mere glowing tints of those plain crimson silken webs from Bagdad won for themselves the name of baudekins. Furthermore, when they quite ceased to be partly woven in gold, and from their consequent lower price and cheapness got into use for cloths of estate over royal thrones, on common occasions, the shortened form of such a regal emblem, the canopy hung over the high altar of a church, acquired, and yet keeps its appellation, at least in Italy, of “baldachino.” [200] Dugdale’s St. Paul’s, pp. 328-9. [201] Ibid. p. 331. [202] Inventory of the Chapel, Windsor Castle, Mon. Ang. viii. 1363. How very full in size, how costly in materials and embroidery, must have sometimes been the cloth of estate spread overhead and behind the throne of our kings, may be gathered from the “Privy Purse Expenses of Henry the Seventh,” wherein this item comes: “To Antony Corsse for a cloth of an estate conteyning 47½ yerds, £11 the yerd, £522 10_s._”[203] About the feudal right, still kept up in Rome, to a cloth of estate, among the continental nobility, we have spoken, p. 107 of this catalogue, where a fragment of such a hanging is described. The custom itself is thus noticed by Chaucer:-- Yet nere and nere forth in I gan me dress Into an hall of noble apparaile, With arras spred, and cloth of gold I gesse, And other silke of easier availe: Under the cloth of their estate sauns faile The king and quene there sat as I beheld.[204] [203] Excerpta Historica, p. 121. [204] Poems, ed. Nicolas, t. vi. p. 134. This same rich golden stuff asks for our notice under a third and even better known name, to be found all through our early literature as CLOTH OF PALL.