The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
It is the law of the earth, I suppose, and what has been will be, and so
on to the end of time.
We left the melancholy palace to its porter, its peacocks, and the bats,
and wound our way down and around the corkscrew streets, narrow, close,
and dirty, admiring the ancient Moorish gates and doors, studded with
iron balls. The older doors have two knockers, one high for a horseman
to use without dismounting; and, the gate being opened, he would ride
right into the court. We were looking for the Church of San Juan de los
Reyes, and soon found it, a church that dates back to the Moorish-Gothic
period, or the time when the severity of Gothic grandeur was adorned
with the more florid embellishments which Moorish art introduced into
Spain. On the outer walls are suspended the massive iron chains which
were found on the limbs of the Christian captives when Granada was
conquered by Ferdinand and Isabella; and the rescued prisoners hung up
their chains on this church as thank-offerings. And still farther down
the hill we come to the Bridge of St. Martin, and here are plainly the
ruins of the old Moorish castle and palace. A square tower on the
water’s edge bears the name, to this day, _Florinde_, and tradition says
it was here that Roderick unluckily saw her while she was bathing. The
rest of the story we have hinted at already.
Irving, in his bewitching Spanish tales, gives a marvellous account of
the Cave of Hercules, which is said to extend three leagues beyond the
river, and is full of chapels and genii and enchanted warriors. To visit
it has cost kings their crowns; and the terrible sounds that are heard,
and the rushing winds assailing the bold explorer, make the attempt too
formidable for modern valor. The entrance is from the Church de San
Gines, but is now walled up. In fact, it was never unwalled, except in
the fancies of romantic historians.
One day, long time ago, as the Cid was riding through Toledo, his horse
stopped suddenly, and knelt before a wall built against a bank of earth.
The hill was opened, and within was found a niche, and in the niche an
image of the Saviour, with the same lamps burning in it which the Goths
had put there long centuries agone. A Moorish mosque is standing
opposite, which has been converted into a Christian church, and in it
the first mass was celebrated in 1085. It takes its name from the legend
of the Cid, and is called Christo de la Luz. It is perhaps the smallest
church in Toledo, only twenty-two feet square, yet the quaintest and
most curious thing to be found in the city; short columns support arches
in the shape of a horse-shoe, and three narrow naves, crossing each
other, cut up the church into nine vaults. There is nothing in it worth
seeing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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