The period which closes with the ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 has
been called the Golden Age of Mountaineering; and the mountaineers whom
we have mentioned were responsible for the greater portion of this
glorious harvest. By 1865 the Matterhorn was the only remaining Zermat
giant that still defied the invaders; and beyond Zermat only one great
group of mountains, the Dolomites, still remained almost unconquered.
It was the age of the guided climber. The pioneers did excellent work
in giving the chamois hunter the opportunity to become a guide. And
many of these amateurs were really the moral leaders of their parties.
It was sometimes, though not often, the amateur who planned the line
of ascent, and decided when the attack should be pressed and when it
should be abandoned. It was only when the guide had made repeated
ascents of fashionable peaks that the part played by the amateur became
less and less important. Mountaineering in the ’fifties and ’sixties
was in many ways far more arduous than it is to-day. Club-huts are now
scattered through the Alps. It is no longer necessary to carry firewood
and sleeping-bags to some lonely bivouac beside the banks of great
glaciers. A sudden gust of bad weather at night no longer means that
the climber starts at dawn with drenched clothes. The excellent series
of _Climbers’ Guides_ give minute instructions describing every step
in the ascent. The maps are reliable. In those days, guide-books had
still to be written, the maps were romantic and misleading, and the
discoverer of a new pass had not only to get to the top, he had also
to get down the other side. What precisely lay beyond the pass, he did
not know. It might be an impassable glacier, or a rock face that could
not be descended. Almost every new pass involved the possibility of a
forced bivouac.
None the less, it must be admitted that the art of mountaineering has
advanced more since 1865 than it did in the preceding half century.
There is a greater difference between the ascent of the Grepon by the
Mer de Glace Face, or the Brouillard Ridge of Mont Blanc, than between
the Matterhorn and the Gross Glockner, or between the Weishorn and Mont
Blanc.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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