Leslie Stephen admitted this, and he had less cause to admit it than
most. “I utterly repudiate the doctrine that Alpine travellers are, or
ought to be, the heroes of Alpine adventure. The true way, at least, to
describe all my Alpine adventures is to say that Michael Anderegg, or
Lauener, succeeded in performing a feat requiring skill, strength, and
courage, the difficulty of which was much increased by the difficulty
of taking with him his knapsack and his employer.” Now, this does less
than justice to Leslie Stephen, and to many of the early mountaineers.
Often they supplied the brain of the party, and the directing energy.
They were pioneers. Yet mountaineering as a fine art owes almost as
much to the men who first dispensed with professional assistance. A
man who climbs habitually with guides may be, and often is, a fine
mountaineer. He _need_ be nothing more than a good walker, with a
steady head, to achieve a desperate reputation among laymen.
Many of the early pioneers were by no means great athletes, though
their mountaineering achievements deceived the public into crediting
them with superhuman nerve and strength. Many of them were middle-aged
gentlemen, who could have taken no part in active sports which demand
a swift alliance of nerve and muscle; but who were quite capable of
plugging up the average mixture of easy rock and snow that one meets on
the average first-class Alpine peak. They had average endurance, and
more than average pluck, for the prestige of the unvanquished peaks
still daunted all but the courageous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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