_Pass through the village, leave the church on the left, and take on the left the road leading to_ =Bouresches=. About 200 yards from the village there are more American graves. On the left of the road the southern edge of Belleau Wood is visible. Shortly before arriving at Bouresches are more American graves on the left (photo above). From here the tourist may cross the fields to the wood where there is a path leading to Hill 181, its highest point. Numerous trenches, shelters, etc., will be found there. In April, 1919, corpses were still lying on the ground (photo, p. 53). _Enter_ =Bouresches=. _Turn to the right in front of the Church, towards Vaux._ [Illustration: BOURESCHES CHURCH.] The road in front of the church leads: _on the left_, to Belleau, _on the right_, to Vaux. [Illustration: RUINS IN VAUX VILLAGE.] _On the right_, American graves. _Enter_ =Vaux=. _Cross the National Road_ (N. 3) _and continue straight along the valley_. The ruins here are particularly impressive (photo above). Going towards Essommes, the tourist comes to =Monneaux=, whose cemetery is on the left, at the entrance to the village. The wall nearest Vaux is pierced with =loop-holes= for machine-guns. Along the left-hand side of the road, American graves. _Cross the village_, which was much less damaged than Vaux, _pass through Montcourt, and after leaving the village cross the river_. _Continue straight along, pass through a hamlet, after which_ =Essommes= _is reached_. This tiny village is one of the oldest in the region. Its fine =church= was built in the 13th and 14th centuries. The choir and transept are especially noteworthy. [Illustration: THE NAVE AND CHOIR OF ESSOMMES CHURCH, WHOSE VAULTING HAS FALLEN IN.] [Illustration: THE CHOIR AND TRANSEPT SEEN FROM ONE OF THE AISLES.] [Illustration: STAINED-GLASS WINDOW IN ESSOMMES CHURCH.] Inside are admirable 16th century carved stalls and woodwork. The keystones of the vaulting, a 16th century font, a monk’s tomb with the carved figure of a crosiered abbot, and the fine stained-glass windows are likewise remarkable. According to tradition, Queen Blanche de Navarre, who was a generous patron of the region of Château-Thierry, was buried in the Church. [Illustration: KITCHEN AT NO. 4 AVENUE DU MARÉCHAL FOCH, AS THE GERMANS LEFT IT.] The village was damaged by bombardment. _Pass in front of the Church, leaving it to the left, then turn to the left into N._ 3, _which leads back to_ =Château-Thierry=, via _the Avenue du Maréchal Foch_. The photographs on this page, showing the effects of German plundering, were taken at No. 4 of this avenue. From Vaux, the road winds round =Hill 204=, which was so bitterly disputed. In July, 1918, the Americans set out for the attack from the various villages seen on the way, and after a week of severe fighting, succeeded in driving out the Germans. [Illustration: DINING-ROOM AT NO. 4 AVENUE DU MARÉCHAL FOCH, AS THE GERMANS LEFT IT.]