_At the top of Hill 342, the road passes near_ =Joan-of-Arc Fort=, formerly the German fort “_Kaiserin_.” It stands about 300 yards to the right of the road. _The latter, a little further on, turns sharply to the left near a_ =monument= surrounded with trees, which was erected to the memory of the soldiers who fell in 1870. Several graves bear the inscription: “Krieger v. 18 8–1870.” _St. Hubert Farm is soon reached, then the deep_ =Ravine of Mance=, _along_ which the defeated Germans were forced to retreat in the course of the great battle of August 16, 1870, fought between the villages of Gravelotte (_which the tourist soon reaches_), Rézonville and Mars-la-Tour (_further west_). In =Gravelotte= (_12 km. 700 from Metz_) _take the road to Doncourt (D.I.) on the right, in front of the Post Office_. _The road passes close to_ =Mogador Farm=, from which Kaiser Wilhelm I. saw his troops thrown into confusion and beating a hurried retreat under the cover of night. _After passing in front of_ =Malmaison Farm=, _the old frontier is crossed_. _Eight kilometres 900 beyond Gravelotte_, =Doncourt= _village is reached. Cross through and keep straight on along D.I. After passing by Jarny Mines, the road crosses the railway (l.c.) and enters_ =Jarny= _village, 4 km. from Doncourt_. Several houses were destroyed and the church badly damaged. _Two kilometres beyond Jarny_, =Conflans-en-Jarnizy= _is reached_. Several of the houses were destroyed. _Go through the village and at the far end take the Etain road. 5 km. from Conflans_, =Jeandelize= _is reached_. The church (_on the right_) was torn open by shells. Note the Renaissance doors of several of the houses. _Keep straight on._ =Olley= _village (on the right) is passed, 2 km. beyond Jeandelize. There is_ a large German cemetery _fifty yards from the road on the right_. =St. Jean-lés-Buzy= _and_ =Buzy= (_the latter 11 km. from Conflans_) _are passed through, after which_ =Hill 198=—on which is a German stronghold with blockhouse, trenches and barbed wire entanglements—_is reached_. The partly destroyed village of =Warcq= _is next passed through, after which_ 2 km. further on, =Etain= _is reached_. [Illustration: NEAR GRAVELOTTE. GRAVES OF FRENCH SOLDIERS WHO FELL ON AUGUST 18, 1870] [Illustration: ETAIN. RUINED CHURCH AND HOUSES _Seen from the bridge over the Orne, on the road to Verdun._] ETAIN Etain was looted by the Swedes in 1622, during the reign of Louis XIII. Later, it was often taken and retaken by the French, Germans, Spaniards and Lorrains. Its fortifications were destroyed under Louis XIV. By the Treaty of Vienna (18th century) the town was definitely ceded to France. In October, 1792, Kellermann’s advance guards, in pursuit of the Prussians, encamped at Etain. [Illustration: ETAIN. THE TOWER AND SOUTH FRONT OF THE CHURCH _The tower was used as an observation-post by the Germans._] [Illustration: ETAIN. CHEVET AND NORTH FRONT OF CHURCH]