NICE (or Nizza), although now the most important town on the Riviera, possesses no ancient buildings. In Roman times Cemenelum (now Cimièz), the chief city of the Maritime Alps, stood on a lofty site about three miles up the river Paglione from the modern town. This ancient city has almost entirely disappeared, its only relics being the ruins of a small amphitheatre (Figs. 30 and 31), through the centre of which the public road now passes, and some excavated hypocausts in the garden of a villa adjoining. The amphitheatre measures 214 feet long by 178 feet wide, and it has been calculated that it was capable of containing about 8000 spectators. The form of the arena and the slope of the first series of seats can be distinctly seen, but otherwise the building is a complete ruin. A few of the perforated corbels for the support of the poles which carried the velarium may, however, be still observed on the exterior. But the want of architectural features is to some extent compensated by the grandeur of the views obtained from the walls, comprising the whole of the coast from Bordighera on the east, to the Cap d’Antibes on the west. Proceeding in that direction, a drive along the magnificent Cornice-road soon brings us to the ancient boundary between Gaul and Italy at [Illustration: FIG. 32. MONUMENT TO AUGUSTUS, LA TURBIE.] LA TURBIE (Turbia or Trophæa), a small town standing on an inland pass formed by a notch in the mountains, which here rise in great precipices directly from the sea. On this neck a trophy was built in commemoration of the victories of Augustus over the Alpine tribes. The monument (Fig. 32) has been of great size, and is built with large blocks of stone. It probably stood on a square base, on which was erected the great circular mass above. It was adorned with statues, and a colossal figure of the emperor crowned the top. The design would thus resemble a great many of the splendid mausoleums erected about that time in Italy. As above noticed this edifice bears a strong likeness to the Tour Magne at Nimes. The massive Roman work is still traceable in the lower parts filled in with rubble between. Fragments of an inscription have been found in the ruins commemorating the triumphs of the divine Emperor and High Priest Augustus. In mediæval times this monument was, as usual, converted into a fortress, as the work of the upper part still shews. It is executed in inferior masonry, and the cornice is Italian in character. The fortress was blown up by Marshal de Villars in the seventeenth century. The gateways of the town (_see_ Part VI.) and other structures have been built with massive stones from the ruins of the trophy, which, as so often happens, has been used as a convenient quarry.