The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The white ant, which is so common in India and China, eating into every
organic matter that it comes across, appears to have no relish for
santal-wood; hence it is frequently made into caskets, jewel-boxes,
deed-cases, &c. This quality, together with its fragrance, renders it a
valuable article to the cabinet-makers of the East.
The otto of santal is remarkably dense, and is above all others
oleaginous in its appearance, and, when good, is of a dark straw color.
When dissolved in spirit, it enters into the composition of a great many
of the old-fashioned bouquets, such as "Marechale," and others, the
formulae of which will be given hereafter. Perfumers thus make what is
called
EXTRAIT DE BOIS DE SANTAL.
Rectified spirits, 7 pints.
Esprit de rose, 1 pint.
Essential oil, _i.e._ otto, of santal, 3 oz.
All those EXTRACTS, made by dissolving the otto in alcohol, are
nearly white, or at least only slightly tinted by the color of the oil
used. When a perfumer has to impart a delicate _odeur_ to a lady's
_mouchoir_, which in some instances costs "no end of money," and is an
object, at any cost, to retain unsullied, it behooves his reputation to
sell an article that will not stain a delicate white fabric. Now, when a
perfume is made in a direct manner from any wood or herb, as tinctures
are made, that is, by infusion in alcohol, there is obtained, besides
the odoriferous substance, a solution of coloring and extractive matter,
which is exceedingly detrimental to its fragrance, besides seriously
staining any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon; and for this
reason this latter method should never be adopted, except for use upon
silk handkerchiefs.
The odor of santal assimilates well with rose; and hence, prior to the
cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it was used to adulterate otto of
roses; but is now but seldom used for that purpose.
By a "phonetic" error, santal is often printed "sandal," and "sandel."
SASSAFRAS.--Some of the perfumers of Germany use a tincture of
the wood of the _Laurus sassafras_ in the manufacture of hair-washes and
other nostrums; but as, in our opinion, it has rather a "physicky" smell
than flowery, we cannot recommend the German recipes. The _Eau
Athenienne_, notwithstanding, has some reputation as a hair-water, but
is little else than a weak tincture of sassafras.
SPIKE.--French oil of lavender, which is procured from the
_Lavandula spica_, is generally called oil of spike. (See Lavender.)
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