The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
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The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
STORAX and TOLU are used in perfumery in the same way
as benzoin, namely, by solution in spirit as a tincture. An ounce of
tincture of storax, tolu, or benzoin, being added to a pound of any very
volatile perfume, gives a degree of permanence to it, and makes it last
longer on the handkerchief than it otherwise would: thus, when any
perfume is made by the solution of an otto in spirit, it is usual to add
to it a small portion of a substance which is less volatile, such as
extract of musk, extract of vanilla, ambergris, storax, tolu, orris,
vitivert, or benzoin; the manufacturer using his judgment and discretion
as to which of these materials are to be employed, choosing, of course,
those which are most compatible with the odor he is making.
The power which these bodies have of "fixing" a volatile substance,
renders them valuable to the perfumer, independent of their aroma, which
is due in many cases to benzoic acid, slightly modified by an esential
oil peculiar to each substance, and which is taken up by the alcohol,
together with a portion of resin. When the perfume is put upon a
handkerchief, the most volatile bodies disappear first: thus, after the
alcohol has evaporated, the odor of the ottos appear stronger; if it
contains any resinous body, the ottos are held in solution, as it were,
by the resin, and thus retained on the fabric. Supposing a perfume to be
made of otto only, without any "fixing" substance, then, as the perfume
"dies away," the olfactory nerve, if tutored, will detect its
composition, for it spontaneously analyzes itself, no two ottos having
the same volatility: thus, make a mixture of rose, jasmine, and
patchouly; the jasmine predominates first, then the rose, and, lastly,
the patchouly, which will be found hours after the others have
disappeared.
SYRINGA.--The flowers of the _Philadelphus coronarius_, or
common garden syringa, have an intense odor resembling the
orange-blossom; so much so, that in America the plant is often termed
"mock orange." A great deal of the pomatum sold as pommade surfin, a la
fleur d'orange, by the manufacturers of Cannes, is nothing more than
fine suet perfumed with syringa blossoms by the maceration process.
Fine syringa pomade could be made in England at a quarter the cost of
what is paid for the so-called orange pomatum.
THYME.--All the different species of thyme, but more
particularly the lemon thyme, the _Thymus serpyllum_, as well as the
marjorams, origanum, &c., yield by distillation fragrant ottos, that are
extensively used by manufacturing perfumers for scenting soaps; though
well adapted for this purpose, they do not answer at all in any other
combinations. Both in grease and in spirit all these ottos impart an
herby smell (very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a
consequence, they are not considered _recherche_.
When any of these herbs are dried and ground, they usefully enter into
the composition of sachet powders.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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