The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
ESSENCE OF VITIVERT of the shops. In this state it is rarely
used as a perfume, although it is occasionally asked for by those who,
perhaps, have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in
"the Eastern clime." The extract, essence, or tincture of vitivert,
enters into the composition of several of the much-admired and old
bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in England, such as
"_Mousselaine des Indies_," for which preparation M. Delcroix, in the
zenith of his fame, created quite a _furor_ in the fashionable world.
[Illustration: Vitivert.]
Essence of vitivert is also made by dissolving 2 oz. of otto of vitivert
in 1 gallon of spirit; this preparation is stronger than the tincture,
as above.
MARECHALE and BOUQUET DU ROI, perfumes which have also
"had their day," owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivert contained
in them.
Bundles of vitivert are sold for perfuming linen and preventing moth,
and, when ground, is used to manufacture certain sachet powders.
Otto of vitivert is procurable by distillation; a hundred-weight of
vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, which in appearance very much
resembles otto of santal. I have placed a sample of it in the museum at
Kew.
VOLKAMERIA.--An exquisite perfume is sold under this name,
presumed, of course, to be derived from the _Volkameria inermis_
(LINDLEY). Whether it has a smell resembling the flower of that
plant, or whether the plant blooms at all, we are unable to say. It is a
native of India, and seems to be little known even in the botanic
gardens of this country; however, the plant has a name, and that's
enough for the versatile Parisian perfumer, and if the mixture he makes
"takes" with the fashionable world--the plant which christens it has a
fine perfume for a certainty!
ESSENCE OF VOLKAMERIA.
Esprit de violette, 1 pint.
" tubereuse, 1 "
" jasmine, 1/4 "
" rose, 1/2 "
Essence de muse, 2 oz.
WALLFLOWER (_Cherianthus_).--Exquisite as is the odor of this
flower, it is not used in perfumery, though no doubt it might be, and
very successfully too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To
this flower we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted
for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country, our
climate being good for its production. The mode for obtaining its odor
has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page 60. And if it
answers on the small scale, there is little doubt of success in the
large way, and there is no fear but that the scent of the old English
wallflower will meet with a demand.
An IMITATION ESSENCE OF WALLFLOWER can be compounded thus:--
Extract fleur d'orange, 1 pint.
" vanilla, 1/2 "
Esprit de rose, 1 "
Extract of orris, 1/2 "
" cassie, 1/2 "
Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops.
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