The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
AMBERGRIS.--This substance is found in the sea, floating near
the islands of Sumatra, Molucca, and Madagascar; also on the coasts of
America, Brazil, China, Japan, and the Coromandel. The western coast of
Ireland is often found to yield large pieces of this substance. The
shores of the counties of Sligo, Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran,
are the principal places where it has been found. In the "Philosophical
Transactions" there is an account of a lump found on the beach of the
first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was
bought on the spot for 20_l._, but which afterwards was sold in London
for more than 100_l._ (Philos. Trans. No. 227, p. 509). We are quite
within limit in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of
ambergris have been written, but the question respecting it is still at
issue. It is found in the stomachs of the most voracious fishes, these
animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they happen to meet
with. It has been particularly found in the intestines of the spermaceti
whale, and most commonly in sickly fish, whence it is supposed to be the
cause or effect of the disease.
Some authors, and among them Robert Boyle, consider it to be of
vegetable production, and analogous to amber; hence its name
amber-_gris_ (gray) gray amber. It is not, however, within the province
of this work to discuss upon the various theories about its production,
which could probably be satisfactorily explained if our modern
appliances were brought to bear upon the subject. The field is open to
any scientific enthusiast; all recent authors who mention it, merely
quoting the facts known more than a century ago.
A modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, "It smells like dried
cow-dung." Never having smelled this latter substance, we cannot say
whether the simile be correct; but we certainly consider that its
perfume is most incredibly overrated; nor can we forget that
HOMBERG found that "a vessel in which he had made a long
digestion of the human faeces had acquired a very strong and perfect
smell of ambergris, insomuch that any one would have thought that a
great quantity of essence of ambergris had been made in it. The perfume
(_odor!_) was so strong that the vessel was obliged to be moved out of
the laboratory." (Mem. Acad. Paris, 1711.)
Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume, in
deference to those who admire its odor, we presume that it has to many
an agreeable smell.
Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing
little volatility, it, when mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives
permanence to them on the handkerchief, and for this quality the
perfumer esteems it much.
ESSENCE OF AMBERGRIS
Is only kept for mixing; when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the
public nose; it is then called after the Parisian name
EXTRAIT D'AMBRE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account