The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
EXTRACT OF CIVET is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce
of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar
material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then
placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating
for a month, it is fit to strain off. It is principally used as a
"fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor. The French
perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who
seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint
is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume.
CASTOR is a secretion of the _Castor fiber_, or beaver, very
similar to civet. Though we have often heard of its being used in
perfumery, we do not personally know that such is the case.
MUSK.--This extraordinary substance, like civet, is an animal
secretion; it is contained in excretory follicles about the navel of the
male animal. In the perfumery trade these little bags are called "pods,"
and as imported it is called "pod musk." When the musk is separated from
the skin or sack in which it is contained, it is then called "grain
musk."
The musk deer (_Moschus moschatus_) is an inhabitant of the great
mountain range which belts the north of India, and branches out into
Siberia, Thibet, and China. And it is also found in the Altaic range,
near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges, but always on the
borders of the line of perpetual snow. It is from the male animal only
that the musk is produced.
[Illustration: Musk Pod, actual size.]
It formerly was held in high repute as a medicine, and is still so among
Eastern nations. The musk from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, is most
esteemed, that from Bengal is inferior, and from Russia is of still
lower quality. The strength and the quantity produced by a single animal
varies with the season of the year and the age of the animal. A single
musk pod usually contains from two to three drachms of grain musk. Musk
is imported into England from China, in caddies of from 50 to 100 ounces
each. When adulterated with the animal's blood, which is often the case,
it forms into lumps or clots; it is sometimes also mixed with a dark,
friable earth. Those pods in which little pieces of lead are discovered,
as a general rule, yield the finest quality of musk; upon this rule, we
presume that the best musk is the most worthy of adulteration. Musk is
remarkable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of its scent; everything
in its vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and long retains its odor,
although not in actual contact with it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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