The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North AmericaStuck, Hudson
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The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North America
Stuck, Hudson
McKinley, Mount (Alaska); Mountaineering -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount; Stuck, Hudson, 1863-1920 -- Travel -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount
From this time, during our stay in the Grand Basin and until we had left
it and descended again, the weather progressively cleared and brightened
until all clouds were dispersed. From time to time there were fresh
descents of vapor, and even short snow-storms, but there was no general
enveloping of the mountain again. Cold it was, at times even in the
sunshine, with "a nipping and an eager air," but when the wind ceased it
would grow intensely hot. On the 4th June, at 3 P. M., the thermometer
in the full sunshine rose to 50 deg. F.--the highest temperature recorded
on the whole excursion--and the fatigue of packing in that thin atmosphere
with the sun's rays reflected from ice and snow everywhere was most
exhausting. We were burned as brown as Indians; lips and noses split and
peeled in spite of continual applications of lanoline, but, thanks to
those most beneficent amber snow-glasses, no one of the party had the
slightest trouble with his eyes. At night it was always cold, 10 deg.
below zero being the highest minimum during our stay in the Grand Basin,
and 21 deg. below zero the lowest. But we always slept warm; with
sheep-skins and caribou-skins under us, and down quilts and camel's-hair
blankets and a wolf-robe for bedding, the four of us lay in that
six-by-seven tent, in one bed, snug and comfortable. It was disgraceful
overcrowding, but it was warm. The fierce little primus stove, pumped up
to its limit and perfectly consuming its kerosene fuel, shot out its
corona of beautiful blue flame and warmed the tight, tiny tent. The
primus stove, burning seven hours on a quart of coal-oil, is a little
giant for heat generation. If we had had two, so that one could have
served for cooking and one for heating, we should not have suffered from
the cold at all, but as it was, whenever the stew-pot went on the stove,
or a pot full of ice to melt, the heat was immediately absorbed by the
vessel and not distributed through the tent. But another primus stove
would have been another five or six pounds to pack, and we were "heavy"
all the time as it was.
[Illustration: Traverse under the cliffs of the Northeast Ridge to enter
the Grand Basin.]
[Sidenote: The Labor of Packing]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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