The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North AmericaStuck, Hudson
History
The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North America
Stuck, Hudson
McKinley, Mount (Alaska); Mountaineering -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount; Stuck, Hudson, 1863-1920 -- Travel -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount
We lay down for a few hours on the night of the 6th June, resolved to
rise at three in the morning for our attempt upon the summit of Denali.
At supper Walter had made a desperate effort to use some of our ten
pounds of flour in the manufacture of "noodles" with which to thicken
the stew. We had continued to pack that flour and had made effort after
effort to cook it in some eatable way, but without success. The sour
dough would not ferment, and we had no baking-powder. _Is_ there any way
to cook flour under such circumstances? But he made the noodles too
large and did not cook them enough, and they wrought internal havoc upon
those who partook of them. Three of the four of us were unwell all
night. The digestion is certainly more delicate and more easily
disturbed at great altitudes than at the lower levels. While Karstens
and Tatum were tossing uneasily in the bedclothes, the writer sat up
with a blanket round his shoulders, crouching over the primus stove,
with the thermometer at -21 deg. F. outdoors. Walter alone was at ease,
with digestive and somnolent capabilities proof against any invasion. It
was, of course, broad daylight all night. At three the company was
aroused, and, after partaking of a very light breakfast indeed, we
sallied forth into the brilliant, clear morning with not a cloud in the
sky. The only packs we carried that day were the instruments and the
lunch. The sun was shining, but a keen north wind was blowing and the
thermometer stood at -4 deg. F. We were rather a sorry company. Karstens
still had internal pains; Tatum and I had severe headaches. Walter was
the only one feeling entirely himself, so Walter was put in the lead and
in the lead he remained all day.
[Illustration: The South Peak from about 18,000 feet.
The ridge with two peaks in the background is shaped like a horseshoe,
and the highest point on the mountain is on another little ridge just
beyond, parallel with the ridge that shows, almost at the middle point
between the two peaks.]
[Sidenote: Start to the Summit]
[Sidenote: Cold]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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