Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
waited some time, but he did not get better, neither could we learn the
nature of his illness. Carrel flatly refused to go on with us alone. We
were helpless. Macdonald, ever the coolest of the cool, suggested that we
should try what we could do without them; but our better judgment
prevailed, and, finally, we returned together to Breil. On the next day my
friend started for London.
Three times I had essayed the ascent of this mountain, and on each
occasion had failed ignominiously. I had not advanced a yard beyond my
predecessors. Up to the height of nearly 13,000 feet there were no
extraordinary difficulties; the way so far might even become “a matter of
amusement.” Only 1800 feet remained; but they were as yet untrodden, and
might present the most formidable obstacles. No man could expect to climb
them by himself. A morsel of rock only seven feet high might at any time
defeat him, if it were perpendicular. Such a place might be possible to
two, or a bagatelle to three men. It was evident that a party should
consist of three men at least. But where could the other two men be
obtained? Carrel was the only man who exhibited any enthusiasm in the
matter; and he, in 1861, had absolutely refused to go unless the party
consisted of at least _four_ persons. Want of men made the difficulty, not
the mountain.
The weather became bad again, so I went to Zermatt on the chance of
picking up a man, and remained there during a week of storms.(54) Not one
of the better men, however, could be induced to come, and I returned to
Breil on the 17th, hoping to combine the skill of Carrel with the
willingness of Meynet on a new attempt, by the same route as before; for
the Hörnli ridge, which I had examined in the meantime, seemed to be
entirely impracticable. Both men were inclined to go, but their ordinary
occupations prevented them from starting at once.(55)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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