Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
A strong wind sprang up from the east during the night, and in the morning
it was blowing almost a hurricane. The tent behaved nobly, and we remained
under its shelter for several hours after the sun had risen, uncertain
what it was best to do. A lull tempted us to move, but we had scarcely
ascended a hundred feet before the storm burst upon us with increased
fury. Advance or return was alike impossible; the ridge was denuded of its
débris; and we clutched our hardest when we saw stones as big as a man’s
fist blown away horizontally into space. We dared not attempt to stand
upright, and remained stationary, on all fours, glued, as it were, to the
rocks. It was intensely cold, for the blast had swept along the main chain
of the Pennine Alps, and across the great snow-fields around Monte Rosa.
Our warmth and courage rapidly evaporated, and at the next lull we
retreated to the tent; having to halt several times even in that short
distance. Taugwald and Kronig then declared that they had had enough, and
refused to have anything more to do with the mountain. Meynet also
informed us that he would be required down below for important
cheese-making operations on the following day. It was therefore needful to
return to Breil, and we arrived there at 2.30 P.M., extremely chagrined at
our complete defeat.
Jean-Antoine Carrel, attracted by rumours, had come up to the inn during
our absence, and after some negotiations agreed to accompany us, with one
of his friends named Pession, on the first fine day. We thought ourselves
fortunate; for Carrel clearly considered the mountain a kind of
_preserve_, and regarded our late attempt as an act of _poaching_. The
wind blew itself out during the night, and we started again, with these
two men and a porter, at 8 A.M. on the 9th, with unexceptionable weather.
Carrel pleased us by suggesting that we should camp even higher than
before; and we accordingly proceeded, without resting at the Col, until we
overtopped the Tête du Lion. Near the foot of the “Chimney,” a little
below the crest of the ridge, and on its eastern side, we found a
protected place; and by building up from ledge to ledge (under the
direction of our leader, who was a mason by profession), we at length
constructed a platform of sufficient size and of considerable solidity.
Its height was about 12,550 feet above the sea; and it exists, I believe,
at the present time.(53) We then pushed on, as the day was very fine, and,
after a short hour’s scramble, got to the foot of the Great Tower upon the
ridge (that is to say, to Mr. Hawkins’ farthest point), and afterwards
returned to our bivouac. We turned out again at 4 A.M., and at 5.15
started upwards once more, with fine weather and the thermometer at 28°.
Carrel scrambled up the Chimney, and Macdonald and I after him. Pession’s
turn came, but when he arrived at the top he looked very ill, declared
himself to be thoroughly incapable, and said that he must go back. We
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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