Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
It has been mentioned (p. 55) that the rocks of the south-west ridge are
by no means difficult for some distance above the Col du Lion. This is
true of the rocks up to the level of the Chimney, but they steepen when
that is passed, and remaining smooth and with but few fractures, and still
continuing to dip outwards, present some steps of a very uncertain kind,
particularly when they are glazed with ice. At this point (just above the
Chimney) the climber is obliged to follow the southern (or Breil) side of
the ridge, but, in a few feet more, one must turn over to the northern (or
Z’Mutt) side, where, in most years, nature kindly provides a snow-slope.
When this is surmounted, one can again return to the crest of the ridge,
and follow it, by easy rocks, to the foot of the Great Tower. This was the
highest point attained by Mr. Hawkins in 1860, and it was also our highest
on the 9th of July.
This Great Tower is one of the most striking features of the ridge. It
stands out like a turret at the angle of a castle. Behind it a
battlemented wall leads upwards to the citadel.(58) Seen from the Théodule
pass, it looks only an insignificant pinnacle, but as one approaches it
(on the ridge) so it seems to rise, and, when one is at its base, it
completely conceals the upper parts of the mountain. I found here a
suitable place for the tent; which, although not so well protected as the
second platform, possessed the advantage of being 300 feet higher up; and
fascinated by the wildness of the cliffs, and enticed by the perfection of
the weather, I went on to see what was behind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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