Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Two days later we reached Khamba Dzong. The Dzongpen was absent, but his
two head men helped us in his place. We had pouring rain the whole of
the following night. There must have been from 1½ to 2 inches of rain, a
most surprising experience in Tibet and one for which we were hardly
prepared. The men had been breaking out a little again, and one
sportsman had broken out considerably more than anybody else. For
purposes of letting the porters down easily we never considered a man
was inebriated as long as he could lie on the ground without holding on,
but this man for three days in succession had been hopeless, giving no
reaction whatever to the smartest smacks with our sticks, and finally
having to be brought into camp and giving a great deal of trouble. So we
determined on an exemplary punishment. The other men who had broken out
badly had all been given loads to carry for a march, but the next day
this man was condemned to carry an enormous load from Khamba Dzong to
Phari. Considering what his condition had been we were absolutely
astounded when the following day he carried the whole of well over 100
lb. for a 20-mile march to Tătsăng, over a pass of 17,000 feet, grinning
and smiling the whole way as if it was the finest joke he had heard of.
Everybody “pulled his leg” on the way, but nothing could possibly
interfere with his good temper. He was condemned to carry this load
right into Phari Dzong, crossing the three high ridges of the Donka La,
and never for a moment did he lose his temper or bear any ill-will. This
is characteristic of the people: as long as your treatment of them is
understood by them to be just they bear no ill-will whatever, nor does
it interfere in any way with one’s friendly relations; but still, for
all that, it seems to me that they are unkillable. After his behaviour
and the condition he was in for so long, to do such terrific hard labour
as we condemned him to do without the smallest sign of fatigue was
pretty remarkable. But, after all, my own particular Angturke had only
complained of being a little dazed after falling 60 feet on to his head
at the time of the accident.
We camped at Tătsăng, and here we parted with Noel, who carried off his
own people and left us for Gyantse; he was very much afraid of bringing
his cinema films down into the warmth and damp of Sikkim until they were
properly developed, but not only this: it was now the season of the
great meetings and dances of Gyantse, and he hoped to get first-rate
studies of Tibetan life generally. The climate and accommodation also at
Gyantse would just suit him, and he would be able there to put in a full
month’s work completing his films and adding immensely to his collection
of pictures of Tibetan life. He accompanied us for 5 miles, almost up to
the camp we had occupied on our arrival in the spring, and we left him
with great regret.
[Illustration:
IN KAMPA DZONG.
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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