Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
We arrived at Gnatong on July 27 in pouring rain, but next morning it
had cleared, and on the way down as we started the clouds showed signs
of really lifting. On arrival at the ridge over which the road crosses
before beginning the long descent to Rongli Chu, about 400 feet above
Gnatong, we were lucky enough to come in for one of those sudden breaks
which occasionally occur during the monsoon, and if one is at the moment
in a position to profit by them one obtains one of the most glorious
sights to be found in this world. Such was our luck this morning.
Standing on the ridge we were able to see the plains of India stretched
out beneath us to the South, the plains of Kuch Behar with the Mahanadi
River running through them quite clear, while on our right Kanchengjanga
rose through the clouds—a perfectly marvellous vision of ice and snow,
looking immeasurably high. The clouds were drifting and continually
changing across the hillsides and the deep valleys. The extremely deep
and, in places, sombre colour, the astonishingly brilliant colour where
the sun lit up the mountains, and the prodigious heights, made a
mountain vision which must be entirely unsurpassed in any other portion
of the globe. It was a moment to live for; but the moment was all too
short. In half an hour the vision of the plains and the mountains was
completely blotted out.
At Lungtung we visited the little tea-shop where we had all collected,
as we had promised the patroness on our way up. There she was again,
full of smiles, with her family round her, and we all stayed there and
drank hot tea, which we thoroughly enjoyed after the cold and driving
mist, and the flow of chaff I think even surpassed that of our first
visit. So exhilarated were we that Geoffrey and I ran at top speed down
to Sedongchen, which is only 6,000 feet, tearing down the hillsides, and
by so doing, although we occasionally took short cuts over grassy banks
and through forest where it was not too thick, we arrived at Sedongchen,
having entirely baffled the leeches which swarm in this part of the
forest. Not so, however, Wakefield; he also had been exhilarated and had
taken a short cut down, but he had been too trusting, and he arrived
with his legs simply crawling with leeches.
The rest of our journey through Sikkim requires no particular comment,
except that the weather behaved itself in a wonderful way, and we
escaped any real heavy duckings. The heat, although considerable in the
lower valleys and moist, was not at all oppressive. So much so that we
were able to travel at a great pace down to Rongli bridge, which is only
700 feet above the sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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