Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
In the whole range of the mountains of the world there are only four
peaks that top this great height, namely, Mount Everest itself, K^2 in
the Karakorum in Baltistan; Broad Peak on the Baltoro Glacier, and
Makalu in the Everest group. Therefore this climb stands actually as the
fifth of the great altitudes of the world. It is a perfectly prodigious
performance, and taken simply as a _tour de force_ stands in the front
rank in no matter what department of sport or human endeavour. The men
who took part in this climb have every reason to be proud of themselves.
As I have pointed out, Finch and Geoffrey Bruce, using oxygen, took a
route traversing the face of the mountain to the West, and before they
were completely played out and conditions were such that they had to
return, reached a height of 27,235 feet. If they had directly mounted up
the ridge they would undoubtedly have reached the point on the main
Everest crest which is marked at 27,390 and have progressed along it to
a greater altitude. There is no doubt in my mind whatever of this: not
only would their route have been far more direct, but the actual ground
over which they would have to climb would have been easier. It is quite
certain that with the same exertions on the same day they could have
reached a higher point than they did. That does not, however, in the
least detract from their performance. Their experiences, as has been
pointed out by Finch, ease the oxygen question immensely. It was shown
that it was quite possible to remove the oxygen apparatus altogether,
having used it fully and having reached a height of 25,500 feet, nor was
the accident to Geoffrey’s apparatus attended with any of the terrible
consequences which we were led to expect. These conclusions are all very
satisfactory from the point of view of our final success in climbing
Everest. There is no doubt that the height will be attained provided the
very best men, the best apparatus, and an outfit of porters equally as
good as our own, attempt it. And there are plenty of men to draw from
for porters. We could probably obtain without difficulty a team as good,
or better. Of that I am quite certain.
It was pretty evident that one of the secrets of living with immunity
high up is that the actual clothes on the men’s backs should be as light
as possible and as windproof as possible. Proper protection should be
taken against the wind for the head also, and the greatest care must be
taken and the necessity for care be understood by everybody in the
protection of their hands and feet. It is quite possible that with a
little more care we might have escaped this year without any serious
consequences from that point of view.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account