Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
It may well be asked how, holding such opinions, I can set myself to the
task of describing an attempt to reach the highest summit of all. Surely
Chomolungmo should remain inviolate, or if attempted, the deed should
not be named. With this point of view I have every sympathy, and lest it
should be thought that in order to justify myself I must bring in a
different order of reasons from some other plane, and involve myself in
a digression even longer than the present, I will say nothing about
justification for this story beyond remarking that it glorifies Mount
Everest, since this mountain has not yet been climbed. And when I say
that sympathy in a mountaineer may wobble, the mountaineer I more
particularly mean is the present writer. It is true that I did what I
could to reach the summit, but now as I look back and see all those
wonderful preparations, the great array of boxes collected at Phari
Dzong and filling up the courtyard of the bungalow, the train of animals
and coolies carrying our baggage across Tibet, the thirteen selected
Europeans so snugly wrapt in their woollen waistcoats and Jaeger pants,
their armour of windproof materials, their splendid overcoats, the
furred finneskoes or felt-sided boots or fleece-lined moccasins devised
to keep warm their feet, and the sixty strong porters with them
delighting in underwear from England and leathern jerkins and puttees
from Kashmir; and then, unforgettable scene, the scatter of our stores
at the Base Camp, the innumerable neatly-made wooden boxes concealing
the rows and rows of tins—of Harris’s sausages, Hunter’s hams, Heinz’s
spaghetti, herrings soi-disant fresh, sardines, sliced bacon, peas,
beans, and a whole forgotten host besides, sauce-bottles for the Mess
tables, and the rare bottles more precious than these, the gay tins of
sweet biscuits, Ginger Nuts and Rich Mixed, and all the carefully chosen
delicacies; and besides all these for our sustenance or pleasure, the
fuel supply, uncovered in the centre of the camp, green and blue
two-gallon-cans of paraffin and petrol, and an impressive heap of
yak-dung; and the climbing equipment—the gay little tents with crimson
flies or yellow, pitched here only to be seen and admired, the bundles
of soft sleeping-bags, soft as eiderdown quilt can be, the ferocious
crampons and other devices, steel-pointed and terrible, for boots’
armament, the business-like coils of rope, the little army of steel
cylinders containing oxygen under high pressure, and, not least, the
warlike sets of apparatus for using the life-giving gas; and lastly,
when I call to mind the whole begoggled crowd moving with slow
determination over the snow and up the mountain slopes and with such
remarkable persistence bearing up the formidable loads, when after the
lapse of months I envisage the whole prodigious evidences of this vast
intention, how can I help rejoicing in the yet undimmed splendour, the
undiminished glory, the unconquered supremacy of Mount Everest?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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