Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
When we think of a party of climbers struggling along the final ridge of
Mount Everest, we are perhaps inclined to reject an obvious comparison
of their endeavour with that of athletes in a long distance race. The
climbers are not of course competing to reach the goal one before
another; the aim is for all to reach it. But the climbers’ performance,
like the runners’, will depend on two factors, endurance and pace; and
the two have to be considered together. A climber must not only keep on
moving upwards if he is to succeed, he must move at a certain minimum
pace: a pace that will allow him, having started from a given point, to
reach the top and come down in a given time. Further, at a great height
it is true for the climber even more than for the runner on a track in
England that to acquire pace is the chief difficulty, and still more
true that it is the pace which kills. Consequently it is pace more than
anything else which becomes the test of fitness on Mount Everest.
Every man has his own standard, determined as a result of his
experience. He knows perhaps that in the Alps with favourable conditions
he is capable of ascending 1,500 feet an hour without unduly exerting
himself and without fatigue; if he were to bring into action the whole
of his reserves he might be able to double this figure. He will
assuredly find when he comes up into Tibet and lives at a mean height of
15,000 feet that he is capable of very much less. And then he begins to
call in question his power, to measure himself against his European
standard. Every member of both Everest Expeditions was more or less of a
valetudinarian. He had his eye on his physical fitness. He wondered each
day, Am I getting fitter? Am I as fit as I should expect to be in the
Alps? And the ultimate test was pace uphill.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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