The mulberry is a very handsome tree well worthy of cultivation in a large garden, if only it receives the care and culture which it deserves. Its proper name derived from the Latin through the Anglo-Saxon is Murberry. Mulberry is certainly more euphonious. It is said to be a native of Persia, but it has been known in this country for three centuries and a half at least. It is stated that there are trees still living among us several centuries old. The black mulberry is the one commonly grown in England; the white does better in a warmer clime, and has been largely planted in France and other lands, where the leaves are required for silkworms. The white, however, can be grown in this country. The mulberry will thrive in any good soil, but the ground should not be very wet. It should be placed in a sheltered southern aspect, and is likely to do well in the south rather than the north of England. It is propagated by layers, cuttings and seeds. Trees with good straight stems should be had from the nurserymen, and a few shillings spent in buying a straight, strong tree may save years. Plant in late autumn without manure with the usual care (see planting pears); the roots should not be exposed to frost or cold winds. Brick and lime-rubbish below in a heavy wet soil should be given. In a lighter soil put decayed manure round the tree after planting. In spring fork the soil up lightly, as trees thrive better when the soil is stirred. If you plant early in November under favourable circumstances leave four branches only, and cut these hard back to an outer eye. If you plant late, don't prune until the following winter. The first branches if cut back to three or four inches will probably throw out strong shoots. In August choose four of the best placed and strongest of these, cutting out the rest that those left may grow and the wood be ripened. The tree bears on short-jointed young wood, and on spurs, not on gross shoots. Keep the tree open, especially the middle, removing weak, watery spray, and train the shoots upwards. It will be a pleasure to go under the tree in time and enjoy its shade. The sun and air must have free access if the fruit is to ripen. Sometimes the berries fall prematurely. Drought or want of food may be the cause. Liquid manure in summer as the fruit comes on, and the artificial manures recommended for all fruit trees (see pears) will be helpful. In the winter-pruning, cut out all cross boughs, beginning from below, so as not to tear the bark. Check only branches that are rampant and running away from others. Keep the tree as uniformly round as you can. When the tree has (in four or five years) gained size and fruits well, grass may be grown around the tree, but it should be kept closely mown, especially when the fruit is ripening. All coarse grasses should be spudded out. If the fruit were thinned and the tree well fed, no doubt the berries would be finer. In any case feed well in July.