The Book of the Feet: A History of Boots and ShoesHall, Joseph Sparkes
History
The Book of the Feet: A History of Boots and Shoes
Hall, Joseph Sparkes
Footwear -- History; Shoemakers
A good Wellington boot of the softest calf-leather, the sole moderately
thick, the waist hollow and well-arched, firm and yet flexible, cut to
go on without dragging all your might with boothooks, and made with an
intermediate sole of felt to prevent creaking, is the best boot for
general wear that can be made.
The varnished or patent leather Wellington, is a handsome article of the
same class, and is generally made with a tongue, the legs being of
colored morocco leather. It is now brought to a great state of
perfection, and our bootclosers are the most perfect in the matter of
fancy-closing and stabbing, in Europe.
For many years, this department of the trade has been quite distinct
from shoemaking, or boot-making. Originally, closing, making the boot,
shoe, and slipper, and even ladies’ and children’s shoes, was the work
of one individual; now they are separate branches, and the closer has
not only risen in this country, but his work is universally celebrated
from this circumstance, for its strength and beauty. Perhaps nothing in
the way of workmanship is equal to what is termed _blind-stabbing_: the
leather, held between the workman’s knees, is pierced with a small
pointed awl, which he holds together with the flax or silken thread that
is to follow, in his right hand; his left on the inside of the bootleg,
and _in the dark_, in an instant sends through the bristle, and receives
through the same little hole the point of the right hand one; the thread
is drawn, the stitch formed, quickly another hole is made, and the same
operation repeated.
Nothing in the way of sewing or stitching, can equal this
blind-stabbing, one half of which is done in the dark, the skill being
acquired by constant practice, and the extreme delicacy of the touch;
from twenty to thirty stitches have been done to the inch in this way,
and in _prize-work_ as many as sixty, every stitch being clear, sharply
defined, beautifully regular.
THE ELASTIC BOOT FOR GENTLEMEN, is a light and easy article; it does not
encumber the leg, and, unlike the half-and-half Clarence, with its
valve of folded leather, and all kinds of holes and contrivances, it
fits the ankle like a stocking, and readily yields and elasticates to
every motion of the feet and legs.
[Illustration]
The cut represents an elastic boot with a golosh of leather all round,
the upper part being cloth, silk, prunella, cashmere, kid, or the
silk-stocking net; the material generally determining the kind of boot
it is to be, and the thickness of the sole. When it is required that the
elastic boot should have the appearance of a Wellington, it is made
entirely of leather, spring and all, and thus made, when on the foot,
has every appearance of it, as no join is ever detected above the
instep, when the trowsers accidentally rise a little higher than the
wearer of a would-be Wellington sometimes wishes them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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