The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
For children, and youths, cut and fit them up full to the measure, and
in some cases fuller. For boys and misses, fit full. For ladies fit
closely, and be guided by the foot, rather than the fashion, or what is
termed “style;” fit the heel full, the instep half an inch _less_ than
the measure, and most of the other measures one-quarter of an inch less.
For Oxfordties, fit them one-quarter of an inch less than measure; the
same for shoes with long quarters. For short quarters, as brogans, &c.,
fit over the instep full in order to produce ease. For coarse boots fit
up _full_ to all parts of the measure; for kip boots if thin,
one-quarter of an inch _less_ than the measure, but in all cases be
guided by the hardness and thickness of the upper. In gentlemen’s fine
boots, for all parts, let taste and fashion be your guide in length,
toes, &c. Fit the heel up full to the measure, and all other parts
snugly to the foot; be guided by flexibility or hardness of the foot,
making all due allowance for tender parts, corns, callouses, or rolling
of the small toes, and fulness of great toe joints, by fitting a piece
on the last in the proper position and shape, to correspond to the
variations as above.
CUTTING BOOT PATTERNS.
Opinions concerning the cutting of boots are very numerous. There seems
to be little or no uniformity in the system of cutting. Mr. S. C. Shire,
of Bloomsbury, Pa., received a patent for a boot-drafting, cutting,
blocking machine, which patent bears date August 14th, 1847. It has
received the approbation of the Southern and Western manufacturers, and
has been adopted as a guide by them. Many of our own manufacturers have
also adopted it. It operates with ease and accuracy, and is easily
adjusted to any size.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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