The Chautauquan, Vol. 03, May 1883Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
History
The Chautauquan, Vol. 03, May 1883
Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
Chautauqua Institution -- Periodicals; Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle -- Periodicals
It was not until about the tenth century that dress in France became
original. The women of the provinces adopted costumes of their
own, and, at their will, added details. Indeed, if the history of
fashion is studied, it will be seen that the original type of dress
has not changed. It is the subordinate parts that undergo continual
alteration. The skirt, the tunic (or overskirts), the mantle, the cap
and reticule have always existed since the time of our Gallic mothers.
One modification of the skirt produced a great furore in religious
circles—it was the trail to the gown. A disgusted prior said: “The tail
gives a woman the look of a serpent,” and the council of Montpellier
forbade the appendix in question on penalty of excommunication.
No fashion ever brought down more anathemas on the fair sex than
the “_hennins_.” It was introduced, too, in a period when it would
naturally be supposed that the very terror of the time would have
destroyed all passion for dress and capricious fashions—the melancholy
time of the Hundred Years’ War. This hennin was a kind of two-horned
head-dress, made of muslin, stiffly starched and kept in place by fine
wire, and of most exaggerated size. Paradin says: “It was peaked like a
steeple, or with tall horns; from these horns hang flags, capes, fringe
and other material. Such head-dresses were naturally very expensive,
and husbands were loud in complaint.” Confessors and monks added their
curses. They considered the hennin as an invention of the evil one,
and organized a deadly warfare against the obnoxious article; but this
uproar availed nothing, the women only gave up their hennins from a
caprice similar to that which had invented them.
One strange fashion of the whole Middle Ages related to the color of
the hair. Fair hair alone was considered beautiful. On this point the
French and the Greeks were of one mind. In Shakspere’s play of “As
You Like It” we find Rosalind as she hoots at Phœbe, laughing at her
“black silk-hair” as a mark of her plainness. The word “fashion” seems
to convey an almost absolute sense of novelty, but that which is new
to-day may be but a revival of what is old. “There is nothing new under
the sun,” applies with special force to fashion. The pretty trifles
worn by women of to-day are nothing but the reproduction of similar
ornaments worn by the Egyptians, the Greeks, the Romans, or the Gauls,
and all our novelties find their origin many centuries in the past.
THE HISTORY AND PHILOSOPHY OF EDUCATION.
By W. T. HARRIS.
VI.—GREECE AND ITS RELATION TO THE EAST.
In previous chapters we have studied the nations of Western Asia
and Africa in regard to internal appliances for education, but more
especially in regard to external educational influence upon other
peoples.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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