The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Is there, then, any difference at all between roasting and baking?
There is. In roasting, the temperature, after the first start, is
maintained about uniformly throughout; while in baking bread by the
old-fashioned method, the temperature continually declines from the
beginning to the end of the process; but in order that a dweller in
cities, or the cook of an ordinary town household, may understand this
difference, some explanation is necessary. The old-fashioned oven, such
as was generally used in Rumford’s time, and is still used in country
houses and by old-fashioned bakers, is an arched cavity of brick with
a flat brick floor. This cavity is closed by a suitable door, which
in its primitive, and perhaps its best form, was a flat tile pressed
against the opening and luted round with clay. Such ovens were, and
still are, heated by simply spreading on the brick floor a sufficient
quantity of wood—preferably well-dried twigs; these, being lighted,
raise the temperature of the arched roof to a glowing heat, and that
of the floor in a somewhat lower degree. When this heating is completed
(the judgement of which constitutes the chief element of skill in
thus baking) the embers are carefully brushed out from the floor, the
loaves, &c., inserted by means of a flat battledore with a long handle,
called a ‘peel,’ and the door closed and firmly luted round, not to
be opened until the operation is complete. Baked clay is an excellent
radiator, and therefore the surface of bricks forming the arched roof
of the oven radiates vigorously upon its contents below, which are
thus heated at top by radiation from the roof, and at bottom by direct
contact with the floor of the oven. The difference between the compact
bottom crust, and the darker bubble-bearing top crust of an ordinary
loaf is thus explained.
As the baking of a large joint of meat is a longer operation than the
baking of bread, there is another reason besides that already given for
the inferiority of meat when baked in a baker’s oven constructed on
this principle. The slow cooling-down must tend to produce a flabbiness
and insipidity similar to that of the roast meat which is served at
restaurants where a joint remains ‘in cut’ for two or three hours. Of
this I speak theoretically, not having had an opportunity of tasting a
joint that has been cooked in a brick oven of the construction above
described; but I have observed the advantage of maintaining a steady
heat throughout the process of roasting (after the first higher heating
above described), in the iron oven of a kitchener, or American stove,
or gas oven.
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