The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
I made my libations with perfumed water—swallowed my coffee from a
china cup so minute that a fairy might have drained it—tied on my
bonnet—an object of unvarying amusement to the Turkish ladies, who
consider this stiff head-dress as one of the most frightful and
ridiculous of European inventions—and bade adieu to Fatma Hanoum and
her dark-eyed daughter, with a regret which their unbounded courtesy and
kindness were well calculated to inspire.
A wealthy Armenian diamond-merchant, who held a high situation in the
Mint, had offered us a window, whence we might witness the whole
ceremony of the Imperial procession, and towards this point we bent our
steps. But, alas for our curiosity! our leave-taking had been so
thoughtlessly prolonged, that the subjects of his Sublime Highness had
blocked up every avenue bearing upon the point by which he was to pass;
and, despite all the efforts of our European cavaliers and native
attendants, to proceed was impossible. We accordingly took up our
station a little apart from the crowd, in order to contemplate at our
ease the novel and picturesque spectacle of a Turkish mob.
In the distance rose the gigantic dome and arrowy minarets of Saint
Sophia; and beneath them, far as the eye could reach, stretched a sea of
capped and turbaned heads, heaving and sinking like billows after a
storm. Every house-roof, every mouldering wall, every heap of rubbish,
was covered with eager spectators; while the windows of the surrounding
dwellings were crowded with veiled women and laughing children.
What groups were wedged together in the narrow space immediately before
us! The pale, bent, submissive-looking Jew was folding his greasy mantle
closer about him, as he elbowed aside the green-turbaned Emir, and the
grave and solemn Hadje who had knelt beside the grave of the Prophet:
the bustling Frank was striding along, jostling alike the serious
Armenian, whose furred and flowing habit formed a strange contrast to
the short blue jacket and tight pantaloons of the tall, strong-limbed,
Circassian—and the bustling and noisy Greek, whose shrill voice and
vociferous utterance would have suited a woman—parties of Turkish
officers were forcing a passage as best they could, with their caps
pulled down upon their eyebrows, their sword-belts hanging at least a
quarter of a yard below their waists, and their diamond stars, (the
symbols of their military rank) glittering in the clear
sunshine—patroles of Turkish soldiers were endeavouring in vain to
clear a passage along the centre of the street for the convenience of
the Sultanas, and the wives of the different Pashas, whose arabas were
momently expected; the mob closing rapidly in their rear as they slowly
moved on—and clouds of doves at intervals filled the air, the tenants
of the giant mosque before us, scared from the usual quiet of their
resting-places by the unwonted stir and excitement beneath them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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