The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
More than one carriage load of travellers perished on the road in that
catastrophe; but our only discomfort on this occasion was a steady
downpour of rain. We were told that we ought to feel grateful for
it--that at least it would ensure us against any shortage of water. But
no one can be expected to feel very grateful for five successive rainy
bivouacs: and even our _zaptiehs_ grumbled a little--three wet days they
were prepared for, but no one ever expected to get more! Our horses were
the principal sufferers, for the wheels bit deep into the sodden ground
and picked up huge dollops of loam which festooned themselves around the
felloes. We walked many miles to relieve them; but it was like walking
over wet plough-land in England, and we were obliged to pause every few
paces in order to disburden ourselves of the lumps which had balled on
our feet. Stiff European boots are not nearly so good for such work as
the flexible brogues of the natives; and the spongy pads of the camels
are apparently the best things of all.
Some of the wild life of the desert showed itself in a herd of gazelle,
which cantered across our pathway a mile or so ahead. We roused, too, a
flock of herons, several sheldrake, a wild goose or two, and an
occasional covey of larks. After dark we became aware of the jackals,
which began whining dolefully around us; and on one occasion at
nightfall, loping along the skyline just over our bivouac, we espied a
solitary wolf. Human beings were a very great rarity, despite the fact
that we were following a recognized highway, and for two consecutive
days the only sign of their neighbourhood was a solitary black Arab tent
which we spied some four miles to the right. Twice, however, we
encountered a caravan of camels--about seventy strong in one instance,
and about thirty in the other. Camels are preferred to mules on the
plains as they carry much heavier burdens. Moreover one man (with a
donkey) can look after seven or eight camels, whereas a caravan of mules
requires about a man apiece.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account