Putting aside the waste incurred in digging a whole garden when not necessary, the way the soil is then dug near the plants is, I think, objectionable. The ground is dug in a straight line _up to the plant_, and in doing so, if the digging is deep, roots are very apt to be cut. Again, when the work is task-work, the men shirk as much as possible digging close up to the stems under the branches, and thus the soil over much of the roots, is not stirred at all. This is not easy to detect, for you must look under the branches of each tree to see how the work has been done. In “digging round plants” the men should _follow_ the kodalee round the tree, and _the position of the blade in the same line as the roots_ makes any injury very unlikely. Even if tasked, as when the work is examined, it is _only_ round the plants, it is more readily perceived if the ground has not been stirred close up to the stems. I therefore prefer digging round plants, with the view of cultivating them, to digging the whole garden. I believe the object is better attained. That it is much cheaper is evident. The annulus, or space to be dug round, beginning 9 inches from the stem, varies with the age of the plant. Up to two years one kodalee in width will do, and after that say 2 feet. The draw-hoe of 8 inches wide is a better tool for the above than the kodalee, especially as it is work well suited to boys, and the “draw-hoe” is a lighter tool. Till plants from seed at stake are a year old, and till seedlings from nurseries are the same age, calculating in the latter case from the transplanting, no kodalee or even draw-hoe should come near them. The soil round for 6 inches should be slightly opened once a month or so, but it should be done with the “koorpee.” We have now discussed the cultivation of the plants. The above often done, say once a month, if possible, during the season, with judicious pruning and liberal manuring, constitutes high cultivation. Did weeds not grow there would be no need to do more, but weeds _do_ grow, and must not be allowed. The richer the soil the more weeds, the more manure you apply the more weeds also. Weeds choke the plant and diminish the yield. Weeds take from the soil, and from manure, when given, the strength you want for your constantly recurring flushes. If, therefore, you have a large crop of weeds you have a small yield of Tea. How to stop this? There is one golden rule, “never let them get ahead of you.” This, it is true, argues ample labour; but unless you _have_ ample labour for the area you cultivate, better let your money lie in the Bank and not grow Tea. Reduce your area until you _can_ keep ahead of your weeds, for keep ahead you must if you wish for success.