It came to pass that the mighty Emperor Charlemagne hunting in the
neighbourhood discovered the holy hermit engaged in the curious whim
of hanging his axe upon a sunbeam! Astonished greatly by what he saw,
and recognizing in it proof of Utto’s holiness, the emperor offered to
grant the hermit any request that he might prefer. Utto asked that a
convent might be built, and Kloster-Metten was in due course erected
in fulfilment of Charlemagne’s promise. Those who are inclined to be
sceptical can see the monastery, can visit the spring and the little
church of Uttobrunn near by! If these do not persuade them of the truth
of the legend, they will, at least, readily admit that the beautiful
wooded hills hereabouts, and the delightful mountain streams, form an
appropriate setting for the mediæval story.
Deggendorf has the usual tale to tell of suffering during wars, indeed
it suffered more than some of its neighbours, for not only was it
partly destroyed by the Swedes, but much of what the enemy spared fire
destroyed a few years later--including all the town records. But some
good old buildings, including the Rathaus and a fourteenth century
pilgrimage church escaped destruction. This church is said to date from
the year 1337, when a woman and some Jews were concerned in stealing
and insulting the Host. Their efforts to destroy the consecrated
wafer, by eating, by hammering on an anvil, and other means were
miraculously frustrated; and when they flung it down a well, the well
was immediately surrounded by a nimbus. However the story arose, the
fanatical passions of the populace were aroused against the Jews, and
a horrible indiscriminate massacre of those people took place, after
which the miraculously preserved wafer was solemnly taken back to the
church from which it had been stolen. The massacre took place on the
day after that dedicated to St. Michael and a century and a half later
the Pope issued a Bull giving general absolution to those who paid
a Michaelmas pilgrimage to the Gnaden-Kirche or Church of Grace. In
consequence of that, many thousands of pilgrims annually visited--and
I believe still visit--Deggendorf. A hundred years ago the pilgrims on
one occasion are said to have numbered fifty thousand.
Near to this pleasant old town of unpleasant memories are a number of
“bergs” offering easy climbs and magnificent views up and down the
Danube and over the Bayerischer and Böhmer Wälder. Indeed there are not
wanting enthusiasts who regard this as one of the most beautiful bits
of the beautiful river. One feels so often tempted to say this while at
a “bit” which is specially pleasing that such a summing up has really
but little value. Beautiful indeed is much of the journey between here
and Passau--to say nothing of the further beauties beyond--but to pick
out the best would be difficult.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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