The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black SeaMillet, Francis Davis
Philosophy
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
Millet, Francis Davis
Canoes and canoeing; Danube River; Danube River Valley -- Description and travel; Europe -- Description and travel
The sentimental spirit generated in us on the occasion of the happy
visit to Dürrenstein, though veiled a little by the distractions of
Vienna, was now stimulated afresh as we landed in Hainburg. We had
accidentally chosen it as a place for a few days’ quiet work, and found
that we had stumbled unawares into a little walled town full of
archæological and historical interest. Through an ancient arched gateway
near the railway station, Blutgasse (blood lane) winds steeply up
between crowded whitewashed houses to a broad open square, where a
large church with intricately ugly copper-covered spire throws a shadow
over rows of peasant women squatting on the pavement beside their
baskets of market stuff, their blue dresses and bright kerchiefs adding
an agreeable note of color to the blond tones of the surrounding
architecture. Blutgasse! No stretch of the imagination is required to
picture the carnage when the Turks, hunting the inoffensive citizens
through the streets with fanatical ferocity, left only one alive to tell
the tale. This narrow lane, offering a possible escape to the river, was
piled high with headless corpses, and the blood ran in streams under the
oaken gate into the turbid river, which washed the foundations of the
town walls. Tradition says that the one survivor was a woman, who hid
herself, with a small store of provisions, in a disused chimney, where
for three days she listened to the horrid sounds of the massacre.
During the long centuries while history is silent this little town, with
the neighboring region, has been the theatre of many another thrilling
and dramatic episode now only faintly echoing in the murmur of
tradition. On the whole length of this great water highway there has
been no busier spot than this from the time when the goaded slaves first
towed the ponderous Roman galleys against the rushing stream up to its
docks until its complete destruction in the struggle against the Turks.
Indeed, the whole neighboring country bears abundant witness to the
importance of this point. Extensive Roman remains are scattered all over
the fertile plateau a short distance above Hainburg, near the village of
Deutsch-Altenburg and Petronell, where Carnuntum once stood. Military
engineers, since the earliest mediæval days, have burned the shattered
marbles for lime, and have built into hastily constructed defences tiles
and mouldings, capitals and cornices; and in times of peace the local
masons, with more deliberation and less excuse, have completed the work
of destruction. Recent archæological explorations have uncovered the
ruins of an amphitheatre, of villas and baths, and latterly a
commendable local interest has been taken in these relics, a proof of
which is the popularity of the little museum where are stored a
multitude of objects of Roman origin. The farmers now point with pride
to the crumbling ruins of the great triumphal arch, which they but
recently considered an unsightly excrescence on the fair surface of a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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