The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
At the old hamlet of John's Hole, just past here, called often in coaching
days, "Jack-in-the-Hole," was one of the Dover Road turnpikes. The old
toll-house still remains beside the way. To this succeeds, at a distance
of three quarters of a mile, the melancholy roadside settlement of Horns
Cross, where a post-office, two inns, and a blasted oak look from one side
of the road, across great fields of barley, to the broad Thames, crowded
with shipping, below.
Stone Church, one of the most beautiful and interesting in Kent, stands on
a hill-top, a short distance from the left-hand side of the road, and
commands a wide view of the Thames. To architects and lovers of
architecture it is remarkable on account of the striking similarity its
rich details bear to those of Westminster Abbey, and it is generally
considered that the architect of the one designed the other. This is the
more remarkable since the Abbey, with this exception of Stone Church,
stands alone in England as a beautiful and peculiarly personal example of
Gothic thirteenth-century architecture as practised in France. The
architect of Westminster Abbey must have been of French nationality; and
so curiously similar, in little, are not only the details of both church
and Abbey, but also the varieties of stone of which they are built, that
they are most unlikely to have been the work of different men.
[Sidenote: THE QUARRIES]
Greenhithe lies off the road to the left hand, and fronts on to the
Thames. The road, all the way hence to Northfleet, is enclosed by high
walls with tall factory-chimneys on either side; or passes between long
rows of recent cottages alternating with cabbage-fields in the last stage
of agricultural exhaustion. Docks; huge and ancient chalk-pits; great
tanks of lime and whitening, and brickfields are everywhere about, for
Greenhithe and Northfleet are, and have been for many years, the chief
places of a great export trade in flints, chalk, and lime. The flints are
sent into Derbyshire, and even to China, where they are used in the making
of porcelain; and many thousands of tons are shipped annually. The
excavation of chalk and flints during so long a period has left its
mark--a very deep and ineffaceable mark, too--upon this part of the road,
and, to a stranger, the appearance presented by the scarred and deeply
quarried countryside is wild and wonderful. Spaces of many acres have been
quarried to a depth, in some places, of over a hundred and fifty feet, and
many of these great pits have been abandoned for centuries, accumulating
in that time a large and luxuriant growth of trees and bushes. Others are
still being extended, and present a busy scene with men in white duck,
corduroy, or canvas working clothes cutting away the chalk or loading it
into the long lines of trucks that run on tramways down to the water's
edge. Not the least remarkable things in these busy places are the great
bluffs of chalk left islanded amid the deepest quarries, and reaching to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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