The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Samuel de Sorbiere, Historiographer Royal to the King of France, visited
our shores in 1663. The normal passage from Calais was three hours, but on
this occasion seven hours were consumed in crossing, and although the
weather was very fair, the "usual Disorder which those who are not
accustomed to the sea are subject to"--but no matter! To make matters
worse, contempt and affronts were put upon him in Dover streets by some
sons of Belial in the shape of boys who ran after him shouting, "a
Monsieur, a Monsieur," and who, when they had retired to a safe distance,
proceeded to the extremely impolite depth of calling him a "French dog,"
"which," says M. de Sorbiere, sweepingly, "is the epithet they give us in
England."
Our traveller journeyed to London by wagon, rather than take a post-chaise
or even the stage-coach; an extremely undignified thing for an
Historiographer Royal to do, one would think. But then, 'twas the way to
note the strange customs of these English! The wagon was drawn by six
horses, one before another, and beside them walked the wagoner clothed in
black and appointed in all things like another Saint George. He had a
brave mounteero on his head, and was a merry fellow who fancied he made a
figure, and seemed mightily pleased with himself. Arrived at Gravesend,
our traveller, for greater expedition, took boat to London, and so an end
of him, so far, at least, as these pages are concerned.
[Sidenote: M. GROSLEY]
But this little crowd of scribbling foreigners who visited England and
wrote accounts of their travels in these islands before the locomotive was
dreamed of, had much better opportunities of catching impressions than
the railway train affords. They came up this way to London, as slowly as
the poet's spring; and, as a rule, they used their opportunities very
well. For instance, here is the admirable M. Grosley, a kindly Frenchman
who came over from Boulogne in 1765. He gives a most interesting account
of his journey along the Dover Road on the 11th April. He embarked upon
Captain Meriton's packet, which arrived, in company with a prodigious
number of other ships, three hours before time, off Dover. Here they had
to anchor for the tide to serve their landing, and the boisterous winds
drove several vessels ashore, while Captain Meriton's passengers resigned
themselves to death. When at length they landed, half dead, an
Englishwoman with her very amiable daughter and a tall old Irishman, who
pretended to be an officer (and who doubtless "had a way with him"),
landed with our traveller, and contrived that he should pay part of their
fare, the only trick played upon M. Grosley (I am pleased to say) during
his stay in England. The customs officers looked like beggars, but treated
this foreigner like a gentleman, as indeed we may suppose he was, for he
belonged to the Academy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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