The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Upon their way to Canterbury, the travellers, and our foreigner in
particular, had for some time perceived that they were no longer in
France, and when at length they reached that bourne of pilgrims they were
still further impressed with that fact by observing a fat man, who was
just arisen from bed, standing at a bay window during the whole time the
flying machines changed their Pegasuses; and, as they were unexpected the
delay was considerable. But all this while the fat man stood there in his
night-shirt, with a velvet cap on his head, contemplating them with folded
arms and knitted brow, and with an expression which (in France) was to be
seen only on the faces of them that had just buried their dearest friends.
Also, the "young persons" of both sexes stood and stared--not to mince
matters--like stuck pigs.
The country which they travelled through from Dover to London was (so our
traveller thought) in general a bad mixture of sand and chalk. They
skirted some lovely woods as well furnished as the best-stocked forests of
France--alas! where are those woods now?--and presently passed over
commons covered with heath and stray broom, very high and flourishing all
the year round. Those wild shrubs were left to the use of the poor of the
several different parishes, but their vigour and thickness gave reason to
conjecture that there were but few poor people in those parishes. The best
lands were then, as now, laid out in hop-gardens.
The wayside inns appealed strongly to our traveller. They were given,
whether in town or country, to the making of large accounts, but then see
how rich was the English lord who, as a class, frequented them. Anyway,
they were possessed of a cleanliness far beyond that to be found in the
majority of the best private houses in France. There was only one inn on
the road from Paris to Boulogne to be mentioned in the same breath with
the English houses, and that was one at Montreuil, frequented by English
travellers.
Between Canterbury and Rochester the coaches encountered an obstacle which
savours rather of Don Quixote's adventures than of Sunday travelling in
this unromantic country. This was nothing less than a windmill which the
country-folk, taking advantage of that usually coachless day, were moving
entire. Less fiery than the Don, the travellers outflanked the gigantic
obstacle by dragging the coaches into the field beside the road. And of
that road, M. Grosley has to say that it was excellent; covered with
powdered flints, and well kept, in spite of the exemption from forced
labour which the countrymen enjoyed; and here he quotes what Aurelius
Victor has to say of the Emperor Vespasian's vast roadworks in Britain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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