The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeingPacker, Thomas
Science
The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeing
Packer, Thomas
Dyes and dyeing; Textile fabrics
When the skeins, &c. are taken out and arranged upon poles or sticks,
have a fresh water ready in the copper, into which put about thirty
pounds of chipped peach-wood, and when it has boiled half an hour, pour
in some water to cool it down, and add fifteen pounds of crop madder;
work the yarn in this liquor rather under a boiling heat. When it is full
enough, for some shades you must add archil. As the whole pack is dyed at
four or five turnings in, some of the parcels may be varied in the hues
instead of confining them all to one shade. The various turnings will
take the greater part of the day to perform. When you choose to have as
many shades as there are turnings in, you divide the drugs into different
portions for different periods of the time, to be used according to the
patterns required. The most economical method of using the drugs being to
follow the patterns one after the other: practice will teach the operator
to do this most advantageously.
More madder than peach-wood gives a lively red; more peach-wood than
madder gives a bright maroon red, bordering on crimson, but more so
without any madder; with the addition of archil it gives a crimson, but
by no means to be compared with the crimson of cochineal. Urine with the
archil renders a less quantity of archil necessary.
_To dye wool_ YELLOW.
The proportion of _alum_ used by dyers in these processes varies from
one-fourth down to one-twelfth, of _tartar_ one-sixteenth is used, for
every pound of cloth. _Equal parts_ of alum and tartar are used for
_worsted_ and _yarn_, each of which (alum and tartar) is only from
one-twelfth to one-tenth of the weight of the material to be dyed.
The shades of yellow are _straw_ yellow, _pale_ yellow, _lemon_ yellow,
and _full_ yellow.
In order that the cloth should be properly impregnated with the mordants
of alum and tartar, according to what is allotted to the shade, whether
light or full, it should be boiled in the preparation at least one hour;
two hours for a full yellow; then a fresh liquor is to be made to receive
the weld, which must be previously boiled: for a full yellow four or five
pounds of weld will be required to one pound of cloth or worsted; for the
lighter shades less of course: but a sufficient quantity only of weld
should be used, and this should be boiled and re-boiled, as it will keep
but a very little time after boiling. If you have a gradation of shades
you will save drugs and expense by dyeing the fullest shades first, and
the lightest last; but by this method the lightest will not be so bright
as if they were done first, and the liquor renewed with fresh boiled
weld, and so on to the fullest shade. At last you must have for the goods
a preparation weak or strong according to the light or full colour of
which they are to be. The last dyeing, whether of cloth or yarn, will
assuredly take all the colour out of the liquor of any consequence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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